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Old Man River 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Alan Nelson, Spring, 2000
Page Views: 600
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jun 11, 2001
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Description 

The second bolted line to the right of The Put In, this fun route starts in the improbable looking brush on the slope down to the river. There is a small stone that can be used for belay, but it is right in the middle of the bushes. Don't let this stop you, the route is well worth the adventurous belay. Head up through the bushes past a bolt to a flaring crack. At the top of the crack, grab a high clip and re-adjust for a short section of tweaker thin crimps with polished vertical smears for the feet. It's a bit reachy, and at this point the climber has a choice of right or left variations that meet above at the fifth clip. Both are fun, and both tick in at 5.10c/d. Either way, converge on the slab above and romp up to a final perplexing move and the last clip. This ????? move is a bit tricky, but quite well bolted, just do the ????? move that you won't find in the gym and saunter on up to the anchor. Twice the fun at half the cost.


Protection 

QD only. This 85 ft route needs a bit fewer than a dozen draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.



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By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
Jun 18, 2001

Richard--Is this route just left of Bottom Side Down? I believe I climbed this route (the L&R variations at a roof sound familiar), but I thought the roof on the right was harder than 10c/d--maybe I just was pooped for the day, but the slopers stumpted me several times. Harder than BSD and The River Mild IMO.

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jun 19, 2001

Ben - Watch out. With Alan more busy than a swarm of bees, several things have gone in here and off the ramp above and on the far right. There are two 5.12 scale problems to the right of the un-named route described. One takes the roof with a bit of committing throws, the other is a very (IMO) awkward mantle over the roof. I belayed Alan on it and tried it on TR and still flailed. It's a real awkward mantle. You may have jumped on one of these.