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Orkney Islands.. and the Old Man of Hoy
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Old Man of Hoy T 
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Old Man of Hoy 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 460', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Tom Patey Chris Bonington Rusty Bailey.(over 3 days 1966)
Page Views: 5,088
Submitted By: USBRIT on Dec 5, 2009

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The Old Man of Hoy and Andy Ross

Description 

I have climbed this twice ,the first time leading a group of four antique British climbers in their 50's and 60's ,two were grand parents.The following photo's were with my son Andy who flew in from Salt Lake City, Utah.If you like the desert Towers of Utah this is a must do! The most enjoyment of this climb is from the situations and the wild beauty of the Scottish Islands.The climb described is the original route . There are several more difficult routes to its top. Description :- See Topo photo.P1) Easy climbing to large ledge 5.5 P2)Climb down a few feet then across to the foot of a fine crack a couple of strenuous moves to belay.5.9.P3) Follow open corner (In Spring pucking Femur sea birds in this section )5.6.P4)Super climbing up the open book to a fine summit.5.6.Descent Rap the route.Be careful!

Location 

Hoy Island ,Orkney Islands ,Scotland

Protection 

Normal rack cams and stoppers Two 60m ropes is good.


Photos of Old Man of Hoy Slideshow Add Photo
Rackwick Bay beach just below the bothey,about an ...
Rackwick Bay beach just below the bothey,about an ...
Andy at the start of the crack on the second pitch...
Andy at the start of the crack on the second pitch...
Andy on top displaying the rations.
Andy on top displaying the rations.
Paul starting up the last pitch
Paul starting up the last pitch
The Descent!!
The Descent!!
Passing the small Island of Hoy on route to the ma...
Passing the small Island of Hoy on route to the ma...
The free Bothy about an hours hike from the Old Ma...
The free Bothy about an hours hike from the Old Ma...
Looking back down on Rackwick Bay from the path to...
Looking back down on Rackwick Bay from the path to...
 The Old Man from the other side......
The Old Man from the other side......
 ARRIVING AT THE TOWN OF SKAGNESS ON THE MAIN ORKN...
ARRIVING AT THE TOWN OF SKAGNESS ON THE MAIN ORKN...
Top of Pitch Three
Top of Pitch Three
The Route
BETA PHOTO: The Route

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By Br'er Rabbit
From: The Briar Patch
Dec 5, 2009

Next time I'm in Scotland, this is going down!
By Howard Chuntz
Jun 6, 2011

I climbed his route in 1975 (supposedly 1st American ascent. What was the move out of the 3rd overhang on P2? There seemed to be no handholds but there was a wooden wedge pounded into the crack leading up with a drilled hole and threaded with half inch webbing. Are the old railroad spikes still place that were used for the rappel anchors?
Great pictures.
By USBRIT
From: Cumbria.UK
Jun 10, 2011

None of that gear was there in the 1990's. Those items must have been left from the first ascent.Good effort in 75 .... and just getting to the Isle of Hoy itself..
By John Martin
From: Kearns, UT
Sep 23, 2011

I would love to do this route, check out this video:
By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Sep 10, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Can be done with a single 60m rope (using alpine draws properly) and then rapped with a 60m and tagline. First rap: summit to the lower of the two anchors on the big corner (you'll have to step back out on the big ledge to pull the rope but it's a huge ledge you're on). Second rap: down to top of Pitch 2. Third rap: sweet free-hanging rap to ground.

Recommend taking at least two #3 Camalots and one #4...two #4s would not go unused!