Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The East Quarry
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Asbury Park T,TR 
Battle of the Bulbus S 
Bertha S 
Bluesfish S 
Bottoms Up T,TR 
Chum S,TR 
Crack  T 
Crack Au Lait T 
Curious George TR 
Deepwater Horizon S 
Deer Foot Chimney T,TR 
Defective Agency S 
Emilia's Corner T 
Flying Fish S 
Gargoyle Ju-Ju T 
Good Ju-Ju T 
Goonch, The TR 
Great Wide Shark T 
Hairless Dog S 
Hammerhead T 
Hellhound (originally submitted as Viagra Crack) T 
Herringbone T 
Herringbone Direct  T 
High Tide S 
Holy Mackerel S 
Isle of Mouse T,TR 
Jaws S 
Jaws Part 2 (Shark Bait) T 
Land Shark T 
Narrow Face T,TR 
Natural Born Topropers T,S,TR 
Nurse Shark T 
Old Man and the Sea S 
Old Man And The Sea Direct S 
Pigeon of the Sea S 
Pinkerton S 
Pinnacle 2 T,TR 
Play With Your Balls T 
Pretzel Logic S 
Prow TR 
S.S. Minnow T 
Sand Dollar  S 
Sand Shark T 
Sea Robin T 
Sea Urchin T 
Side of Mouse TR 
Slap Happy S 
Tendonkey Punch S 
Tiger Shark T 
Tiger's Woody S 
Weakfish S,TR 
Wooly Bully S 

Old Man And The Sea Direct 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: FFA: Mark Rolofson on December 19, 2010.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,351
Submitted By: Mark Rolofson on Jan 14, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Direct Finish  

Climb to the 6th (final) bolt of Old Man And The Sea. Move right around the prow to a jug and climb straight up to a two bolt anchor (shared with Deepwater Horizon). The exciting run-out climbing no longer exists since Mike added a 7th bolt in January 2012. Mike also managed to do the moves straight up past 6th bolt, which may have a harder move or two versus traversing right (that has more moves). Enjoy all the tricky climbing on Old Man And The Sea with a hard finish instead of bailing out left. The technical cruxes used to be at the 3rd bolt & then the direct finish, but is now at the 5th bolt. In Spring 2011, a large side pull pinch flake broke off and this section is now a very technical. 12c crux. This section was originally 5.11 but is now much harder than the rest of the climb. My original rating for Old Man & The Sea Direct was .12a/b.

Location 

This lies just right of Nurse Shark.

Protection 

7 bolts.


Comments on Old Man And The Sea Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Jan 11, 2014

This route is a duplicate entry of Old Man and the Sea, maybe just make that one the only page? It's confusing since they are listed as 12a and 12d, but the route description is the same.
By Monty
Administrator
From: Golden, CO
Mar 15, 2014

Definitely agree with Jay. This route description should be nothing more than a comment on the Old Man and the Sea page. It's not only a duplicate, it is also a huge inflation of the grade.
By ANGUS WIESSNER
From: Denver Colorad
Dec 23, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

There is no way this is 12 c/d. It's 12b at most. I'd say 12c is a stretch. Easier than Deep Water Horizon for sure. It would be a really hard onsight though.
By Mark Rolofson
Jan 11, 2015

The difference between "Old Man & The Sea" & "Old Man & The Sea Direct" is how they orginally finished. The former originally finished to the anchor on "Nurse Shark" with 5.11 moves past 6th bolt. Mike edited his original post. In 2010, when I led the direct finish that leads to the shared anchor with "Deepwater Horizon", it became the redpoint crux of "Old Man & The Sea" with .12a moves. I did this finish without the last bolt. No big deal because the runout was only 5.8. Then the route changed dramatically when a large, sidepull flake left of the 5th bolt was pulled off, changing this section of the climb from 5.11 to 5.12. Now regardless of how you finish, the climb is solid 5.12. Personally, I find it this move harder than any move on "Deepwater Horizon". The direct finish has become the standard finish. It is arguably still the redpoint crux, as it is the final obstacle to get through when you may be pumped.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!