|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches|
|Original:||YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Laura Hahn on Nov 1, 2009 with updates from Brian Malone|
|Comments on Old Ladies Route||Add Comment|
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By dr. morbius
From: ituri rainforest
Nov 10, 2010
|Ahh, brings back memories of my first lead on this circa 1984 ... intimidated by the height of Seneca since all I'd been on was 30' of limestone, a spanking new pair of Fire's, partner who let me lead the crux pitch and then had to spend 45 minutes cleaning the #4 friend I carefully buried at the bottom of the pitch to protect against an upward pull. This was a few years before the Gendarme fell off so we got to climb that. Then on the ridge to the descent someone asked me to throw them the rope which I had coiled so I threw the whole rope, coming close to pitching it all the way to the bottom & leaving us stranded. Rapping off at night, drinking beer. Haven't thought about this climb in forever (gee, wonder why...) ... Guess I'll have to go back to it someday now!|
By Matt Caldwell
Jun 1, 2012
|First multi-pitch trad lead! Seems like a fun, quality route for such a low rating as 5.2. The exposure was definitely "interesting" for a new leader.|
By Adam Marcus
From: Arlington, VA
Oct 20, 2014
rating: 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
I really wasn't sure I was at the right start spot because the Horst book says the first pitch is 100 feet and looking up from the base, it looked more like 50 feet. After climbing about 25 feet, there's a tree directly overhead and you can go left or right. I think the "flat ledge with a nice view to the east" is to the right, but I went to the left. The second pitch is on the east face, so when the guidebook says to "move right and down onto a ledge on the East Face" it means that you're moving to the north (climber's LEFT from the orientation of the first pitch). It's not that confusing when you get there.
The second pitch is so easy it's hard to remember to stop and place enough protection for the second. I kept looking back and realizing I had just moved 20+ feet without placing anything, so then I'd have to move back and place something.
You can climb Windy Corner (5.4) as an alternative to the third pitch. Both end in the approximate same spot: on the east side of the Traffic Jam rappel.
By David Engel
From: Santa Rosa, CA
Aug 12, 2015
|I did this route in 1971 with Dave Templeton of the PATC Mountaineering Section and many times thereafter. It was a thrill during my high school days to lead this climb.|