Good rock and plenty of features make this climb worthy. No way it is 5.10b unless you actually try to stay way right and not use any obvious holds on the face just left of the crack. I would say it is in the 5.8 range above small gear.
Takes off at the actual point where the big roof/arch pinches down on the left end of the slab.
Thin stuff like wires and a few small cams to about 1.5". Two bolt anchor at the top with rap rings. It is thin, but there is pro available.
|By Russ Walling|
Dec 7, 2013
Easy to TR after doing something like Glens Crack and rapping over, or coming in from the Original Route. We TR'd the thing and found that near the start even being to the left of the crack on the face just 2 feet made for easy climbing in the 5.8 range.