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Siberia
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Original Route (aka Jake Off) 
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Old Hornington 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: T. Gordon, T. Tech
Season: Winter sun
Page Views: 63
Submitted By: Russ Walling on Dec 7, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: West Siberia. T.Gordon pic with my overlay.

Description 

Good rock and plenty of features make this climb worthy. No way it is 5.10b unless you actually try to stay way right and not use any obvious holds on the face just left of the crack. I would say it is in the 5.8 range above small gear.


Location 

Takes off at the actual point where the big roof/arch pinches down on the left end of the slab.


Protection 

Thin stuff like wires and a few small cams to about 1.5". Two bolt anchor at the top with rap rings. It is thin, but there is pro available.



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By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Dec 7, 2013

Easy to TR after doing something like Glens Crack and rapping over, or coming in from the Original Route. We TR'd the thing and found that near the start even being to the left of the crack on the face just 2 feet made for easy climbing in the 5.8 range.