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Arrogant Bastard 
Old Guardian 
Vertical Epic 

Old Guardian 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chris Miller & Pete Paredes, September 2003
Page Views: 493
Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 1, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Old Guardian, 5.10 is "A" in the phototopo


Thin face climbing using edges and crimps leads past several bolts to a small ledge/stance and the end of the difficulties. Above, moderate climbing up featured face, including a final bulge, ends on a spacious ledge with great views of the surrounding area.

Good climbing down low, but the broken nature of the upper portion of the route detracts from the overall appeal.


Left of three bolted routes.


6 bolts, ring anchors

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By Chris Owen
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Sep 7, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Pretty darn crimpy for a few moves there.

By Simon Hatfield
From: Oakland, CA
Oct 23, 2011

Interesting movement, felt a little contrived, worth doing when climbing the other routes at stone wall.