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 ADVANCED
Castle Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angel 
Canary 
Cat Burglar 
Century 
Crack of Doom 
Damnation Crack 
Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka DDD) 
Das Musak 
Devil's Fright 
Lucky Charms 
MF Overhang 
Midway 
Midway Direct 
No Such Thing as a Free Lunge 
Nose, of Jello Tower, The 
Old Gray Mare 
Orange Peel 
Saber 
Saints 
Satanic Verses 
Slim Pickins 
South Face, Jello Tower 
Winter Solstice 

Old Gray Mare 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
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Submitted By: Brian Hench on Aug 21, 2009
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Route Description 

Climb the buttress to the left of the first pitch of Canary and move left to a ledge. This puts one at the start of Crack of Doom.


Protection 

One bolt and one fixed piton plus small cams and stoppers.



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By Brian Hench
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Aug 21, 2009

Route protects much better than it appears from the ground. This route doesn't get as much traffic as it deserves, probably because most believe the only way to the top is Crack of Doom, 5.10b. Actually, one could choose to continue on Winter Solstice by going left on the ledge system to join that route.

By Shaun Johnson
Feb 24, 2013

Super fun route! A few wires and small cams supplement the bolts on Old Grey Mare.

Above and slightly left of Crack Of Doom is a set of chain anchors that allows a 60 meter rope to reach back to loggers ledge.

Linking Old Grey Mare with Crack of Doom is one of my favorite pitches at Castle Rock.

By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Oct 23, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Also worth trying is the rightward traverse into 2nd pitch of Canary, or continue past Canary and go up to anchor of Orange Peel. Many long slings, even on the bolts to help with the rope drag. Maybe 5.8 or 5.9