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Climb the buttress to the left of the first pitch of Canary and move left to a ledge. This puts one at the start of Crack of Doom.
One bolt and one fixed piton plus small cams and stoppers.
|By Brian Hench|
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Aug 21, 2009
Route protects much better than it appears from the ground. This route doesn't get as much traffic as it deserves, probably because most believe the only way to the top is Crack of Doom, 5.10b. Actually, one could choose to continue on Winter Solstice by going left on the ledge system to join that route.
|By Shaun Johnson|
Feb 24, 2013
Super fun route! A few wires and small cams supplement the bolts on Old Grey Mare.
Above and slightly left of Crack Of Doom is a set of chain anchors that allows a 60 meter rope to reach back to loggers ledge.
Linking Old Grey Mare with Crack of Doom is one of my favorite pitches at Castle Rock.
|By geoff georges|
From: Seattle, Wa.
Oct 23, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
FA: Dan Davis, mid 1960's.
Also worth trying is the rightward traverse into 2nd pitch of Canary, or continue past Canary and go up to anchor of Orange Peel. Many long slings, even on the bolts to help with the rope drag. Maybe 5.8 or 5.9