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Old Forge Region

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Old Forge Region Rock Climbing 

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Location: 43.7108, -74.9743 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 11,021
Administrators: Jim Lawyer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: cms829 on Mar 6, 2012
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"Are We There Yet?" WI4, FA C. Sypniewsk...

The Old Forge area is a patchwork of private and public property. Please respect private property and posted signs, and avoid climbing or trespassing on private property unless you have permission from the landowner.


The Old Forge Region contains some of the most undeveloped and vast wilderness around. Needless to say, it also holds some incredible ice and rock climbing. You may reference the Lawyer/Haas "Adirondack Rock" guidebook for the potential rock climbing areas. The ice routes within this region are still being developed and the area is evolving into its own little niche' for those involved. As noted, Please respect the land and property boundaries, and keep the area pristine.

Getting There 

From Utica NY, Take route 12 to 28. This will take you directly into the center of Old Forge. More precise directions will be added soon.

Climbing Season

Weather station 0.6 miles from here

34 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Old Forge Region

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Old Forge Region:
Easy Sqeeze   5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   Bald Mountain
Zig-Zag   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   Bald Mountain
Red Book   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Eagle Falls
Seventeen   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Eagle Falls
Naked Truth   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Eagle Falls
Stihl Water   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Eagle Falls
Lloyds of Lowville   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Eagle Falls
The Eagle Has Landed   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport   Eagle Falls
El Supremo   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 90'   Eagle Falls
Lichen or Not   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Eagle Falls
Promiscuous Girl   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport   Eagle Falls
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Old Forge Region

Featured Route For Old Forge Region
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber on the lower section of El Supremo.

El Supremo 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  NY : Adirondacks : ... : Eagle Falls
Ascends the right side of the largest and most prominent roof system known as Eagle Buttress. A one-move wonder, but what a move! At least the bolt is above your head.Go up a short crack (red Alien, bolt) and through overhanging blocky terrain to an open book corner. Up the corner (0.5 Camalot), then move left onto the orange wall. Up the wall to a good stance below the overhanging face above. Make a hard, crimpy, highstep (crux) and dyno for the thank-god bucket. Heel hook and mantel onto the e...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

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