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Tollhouse Rock
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Old Fart's Edge 
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Unsorted Routes:

Old Fart's Edge 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 600', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
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Submitted By: ClimbandMine on Jan 29, 2006
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Description 

From Tollhouse Traverse and Elephant Walk, continue climbers left across the face to a deep chimney with a ledge and arete to its right. Old Fart's Edge starts up this slabby arete. The Southern Sierra guidebook gives this route 5.6, but its more like 5.7-5.8 in places.

The first belay is a bit right of the end of the chimney, at about 150 feet. The second pitch features a traverse to a thin crack system, then runout climbing to the second belay. The climbing eases off after that, to the dihedral for Tollhouse traverse or the bolted slab.


Protection 

Bolts. A bit runout in places. Bring a set of nuts and cams for a crack on the second pitch. Use a 60m rope.



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