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 ADVANCED
Tollhouse Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Art Baker Memorial T 
Balls T,S 
Beginner's Delight T,S 
Cuticle Corner T 
Dream Analysis TR 
Elephant Walk T 
Free and Easy T 
Friday the 13th T 
Hang Left TR 
Hangout, The T,TR 
Munge Master T,S 
Nuts and Bolts T 
Old Fart's Edge T 
Platinum Plus T 
Pop Quiz T,TR 
Shining Path T,S 
Step Left TR 
Think Nothing Of It T 
Tollhouse Traverse T 
True Grip T 
Uncorner, The TR 
Wandering Taoist T,S 
Wish Sandwich T 
Unsorted Routes:

Old Fart's Edge 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 600', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 948
Submitted By: ClimbandMine on Jan 29, 2006

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Description 

From Tollhouse Traverse and Elephant Walk, continue climbers left across the face to a deep chimney with a ledge and arete to its right. Old Fart's Edge starts up this slabby arete. The Southern Sierra guidebook gives this route 5.6, but its more like 5.7-5.8 in places.

The first belay is a bit right of the end of the chimney, at about 150 feet. The second pitch features a traverse to a thin crack system, then runout climbing to the second belay. The climbing eases off after that, to the dihedral for Tollhouse traverse or the bolted slab.

Protection 

Bolts. A bit runout in places. Bring a set of nuts and cams for a crack on the second pitch. Use a 60m rope.


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