|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 120'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||Ben Boykin, Dean Twitchell, c.1993|
|Submitted By:||Ben Boykin on Jun 22, 2007|
|Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Old Easy Arete (aka "Arettez Maintenant")||Add Comment|
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By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 16, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
|Hard (UK 5c+) edging moves by bolt 4. If you slipped on the easier friction moves to reach bolt 5, the ledge below would be very nasty to land on.|
By Jason Albino
From: San Francisco, CA
Jul 18, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
We did this on our first trip to The Voo July 2013.
A great starting pitch on the formation to link-up with the MRC climbs. If you've never climbed before on this formation, it's easy to spot the shiny bolts from the approach trail to get your bearing.
A 5.9 rating, though, is ridiculous for the crux move around the 4th bolt. That move felt like super-delicate 5.10b slab to me, though it did seem that any slabby movement at The Voo felt sandbagged in general (perhaps because any slab is so very novel in the grand scheme of Voo-style climbing).
That said, the pitch is well-protectable with the bolts and very aesthetic. Recommended.