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Spelunk Spire
Routes Sorted
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Condi T 
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Old Dogs New Trick T 
Paper Training T 
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Sky Shot T 
Wrist Ranger T 
Unsorted Routes:

Old Dogs New Trick 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

   
Type:  Trad, Boulder, 20'
Original:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: Bob Scarpelli
Page Views: 1,993
Submitted By: JNE on Apr 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Bart Cubrich on lap numero quatro, finishing up wi...

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Classic sandbag. This is overhanging, has tough sizes, and there is one hand jam 3/4 the way up. For feet, rand smears in the crack are the way to go. It is totally sweet. TR it if you want, but better yet, haul out a pad and boulder it. No, your fingers will not rip off and stay in the crack if you fall. Go for it! This is one of my favorite boulder problems EVER. Really, EVER.

Location 

Walk toward End of the Road Rock, as per the description for EOTRR and Spelunk Spire. Past Muscle and Fitness (the very overhung right leaning offwidth in the left side of the a-frame accross the stream to the right), after the trail begins bending around to the right (north of) of the formation containing MAF, locate a trail heading up a small sage brush covered hill to the left. It is very vague for the first ten yards or so, nearly non-existent some years, and marked by a short dead pine tree nearby. The trail soon becomes more distinct, and shortly thereafter dives down into an aspen grove. Once out of this aspen grove, head right toward the obvious rock formation (Spelunk Spire, named for the pointed summit at the western most end). At the formation head right until the very last boulders. Looking up to the left you will see a splitter finger crack so perfect it defies reality.

Protection 

Pad, TR, or skill.


Photos of Old Dogs New Trick Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Daaamn!  Said to be like a little Sphynx crack.  T...
BETA PHOTO: Daaamn! Said to be like a little Sphynx crack. T...
Rock Climbing Photo: The artist formerly known as Fshizzle displaying t...
The artist formerly known as Fshizzle displaying t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bart Cubrich on his third lap of the day.
Bart Cubrich on his third lap of the day.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sending the classic ODNT
Sending the classic ODNT

Comments on Old Dogs New Trick Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jesse Ryan
May 25, 2006

Nice history lesson on this one. Scarpelli climbs hard on all sizes!
By Brian Scoggins
From: Laramie, WY
Aug 23, 2009

This one is pretty easy to find if you start from Parade Rock or End of the Road Rocks, since it is very close to Wrist Ranger. From EOORR, follow the trail, bearing right at the fork, to a stand of aspens. Keep your eyes peeled to the right, and you'll notice the short, perfect splitter finger crack.
By erik rieger
From: Ridgway, CO
Aug 26, 2012

Hard. Nice history on this one, thanks for the info. Scarpelli continues to inspire.
By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Mar 3, 2013

I very much enjoyed the anecdote in Justin's description, thanks for contributing.

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