Old Boys Club  5.11a

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.11a [details] FA:  Brad White Submitted By:  BALDY on Nov 4, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

It's hard to believe that the dramatic overhang at the top of this route goes at 5.10c...but it does (you will have to work for it though).
There are two ways to do this. You can start to the left (and avoid the 5.11a roof), which is the route "Old Boys" and goes at .10c. OR you can do the "Old Boys Club" direct start (a one or two move 11a), which I feel is a cleaner line with better rock and moves. To do it, make some moderate moves up to the roof (a good hold), and the first bolt. One or two .11a moves gets you past another bolt and onto 5.8ish climbing....but it ain't over. climbing past a few spaced bolts up to the spectacular roof. Pull through the roof on buckets and horizontals (.10c) and grunt onto the top of the cliff. Take a deep breadth and a look at your scraped up forearms...wasn't that fun!!

Location 

From the Highlander Wall Main Area, follow the trail to the right skirting the base of the cliff. Squeeze between a bolder and the cliff and you will find the next obvious wall with a few bolted lines on it. Start at the lowest point of land at the base of the cliff, under the overlap with two bolts on it.

Protection 

draws...a good number of them.