This is the major cliff on the Wolgan Valley, with the longest, most spectacular climbs. It is not, however, the best rock in the Valley. Most routes are fully in the shade and up to 100+ meters in length.
Just past the (abandoned?) pub in Newnes is a large grassy clearing. Old Baldy is the obvious, massive cliff just ahead to the north.
Browse More Classics in Old Baldy
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Old Baldy:
Central Direct 5.9+ PG13 Trad, 4 pitches, 350 feet
Featured Route For Old Baldy
Start on a shattered pillar at the base of the cliff. 1) Head up a crack system, then veer left and up to a bolted belay on a ledge. 30 m. 5.9+.2) Continue up the wall past some carrot bolts to a bolted belay. 20 m. 5.8.3) Move left a ways off the belay to a thin crack and follow this up to a roof, past a bush, and into a belay cave. 35 m. 5.9++.4) Wander up and left on easier ground. 20 m. 5.7....[more] Browse More Classics in International