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 ADVANCED
Old Baldy

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Chrome Dome S 
Comb Over S 
Curly S 
Fritz's Forehead T,S 
Pigeon Roof T 
Receding Fall Line T,S 
Rogaine with Minoxidil T,S 
Wiggy T,S 

Old Baldy  


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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Feb 12, 2004
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Description 

Old Baldy is the huge dome shaped rock in the Old Baldy area. Pick it out by looking for the largest formation. Although Old Baldy is not largely developed, there are some older trad routes and some newer sport routes put up in the last few years.

Getting There 

Follow the path that leads to the Old Baldy area. More can be found in Dan's description for the area.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.6 miles from here

8 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',5],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Old Baldy:
Rogaine with Minoxidil   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 300'   
Comb Over   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 180'   
Browse More Classics in Old Baldy

Featured Route For Old Baldy

Rogaine with Minoxidil 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : ... : Old Baldy
Far to the left of the "newly bolted" routes past a large chimney system you will see a couple of beefy bolts going up some schist. This is the route. I believe there were about 6 bolts plus gear placements to a two bolt anchor on the face. I think there are then 5 bolts on the second pitch with some gear placements as well. Belay counter-weighted in a hole and walk off the back. The crux is clipping the 3rd bolt on the second pitch....[more]   Browse More Classics in SD

Photos of Old Baldy Slideshow Add Photo
Mikel Cronin on Flesh Wound.
Mikel Cronin on Flesh Wound.
Blake Workman on Flesh Wound
Blake Workman on Flesh Wound
Jason McNabb on Flesh Wound.
Jason McNabb on Flesh Wound.
Despite taking it prison style, Pounder McNastie p...
Despite taking it prison style, Pounder McNastie p...
Shannon Twomey at Irie Heights.
Shannon Twomey at Irie Heights.
Jamie Coyne at Irie Heights.
Jamie Coyne at Irie Heights.
Shannon Twomey walks on air at Irie Heights.
Shannon Twomey walks on air at Irie Heights.
Shannon Twomey slapping the "Fat Lady".
Shannon Twomey slapping the "Fat Lady".
Mande Shaykett at Irie Heights.
Mande Shaykett at Irie Heights.
Old Baldy as viewed from notch between Hornet's Ne...
Old Baldy as viewed from notch between Hornet's Ne...

Comments on Old Baldy Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mark Jacobs
Feb 20, 2004
Pidgeon Roof sees a 2nd ascent? Suprising. But FA by Old Schooler? Ouch. I put this up in '86, and hoped that there would be something fun at the roof. It was a ground-up-drill-on-the-lead affair, but just 'cuz that was convenient. In fact two other routes that I put up around the same time at Old Baldy also went in as ground-up on-sites: Watching the Wild Things and Hydra-crack. Wonder if Wild Things has seen any traffic? Never got around to bolting a direct finish.

But if I had to pick a label (and who wants to be labeled?) it would Eclectic Schooler. Quality endures. Vern Phinney's "Recedeing Fallline", just left of Pidgeon Roof was a good line in the neighborhood, too. - Mark J.
By CURT LOVE
Feb 21, 2004
Sorry Mark Jacobs,I did not mean to put you down. I simply did not have the guide book anywhere near me. I had thought of doing this route for years and never new who put it up. As for the second ascent I am sure someone else has done it in the past 20 years. Watching the wild things on the other hand does not get done much at all. I dont know anyone who has. Is it well protected in the hard parts? Old schoolers and eclectic schoolers are still found practicing rock craft around here not as much as the yester year but they are still around. I am still young and many of my peers think that ground up routes are "old school" and will never be as good a rap bolted route. I think putting a route from the ground up is about as fun as any aspect of climbing. Some of my best memories are of going up into the unknown and finding something, falling off, or weighting hooks to drill.The saticfaction you get out of that and the relationship you develop with the route becomes very special. Well anyway sorry for the misinformation, I hope you get over it.
By Mark Jacobs
Feb 22, 2004
Hello Curt,Didn't intend to sound offended. Just that the "Old Schooler" comment hit me as particularly ironic since Vern P. pinned whole the Rushmore "rap" on myself and Carl Coy in an essay in his guidebook. I'll gladly take the blame/credit, but what I advocated was putting up routes that you would want to repeat, in whatever style. And honesty about the style that you used. If you can do that and still get in some adventure, hat's off to you. I never liked mixing drilling and climbing. But you do get back from a route what you put into it.

Watching the Wild Things takes great pro, as I remember. Small wires to large fingers (?). Did it a couple of times. Vern showed me the line, and we had a memorable day with the goats and the eagles. The route headed right at the roof that caps the diehedral, and it seemed like cheating. Old Baldy was well off the beaten path in '86. Looks like boulder central now. What a spectacular playground. I'm in Portland, OR these days and when August comes around, I do miss the Hills.

Enjoyed the write-up on Pidgeon Roof, and thanks for the reply,Mark J.
By CURT LOVE
Feb 22, 2004
Hello Mark,I am going to baldy this monday. I plan to do watching the wild things, only tommorow will tell. Lets say I get to the top and go right but see something staight up would you mind if I bolted the finish, and put in a new anchor if needed? Not monday of course but some other day.
By Mark Jacobs
Feb 24, 2004
Curt,By all means, if you think there's a direct finish on Wild Things that's worth adding, I'ld encourage you to put it up. Or add an anchor, as you think best. Seems early to be climbing in the shade, but I forget that you're living in the Banana Belt of the Dakotas.And I've gotten soft.Best Regards,Mark J.