Old Baldy is the huge dome shaped rock in the Old Baldy area. Pick it out by looking for the largest formation. Although Old Baldy is not largely developed, there are some older trad routes and some newer sport routes put up in the last few years.
Follow the path that leads to the Old Baldy area. More can be found in Dan's description for the area.
This route starts to the right of the wall with many new routes on it. This wall is also the wall used to descend this route. 1 200 ft rope will do just fine. Pigeon Roof starts on a face next to a chimney and works on to the face which has one bolt on it, take care in protecting the moves to the bolt. After the bolt you move up into a right facing corner and climb the crack / dihedral. This route then moves up through the big roof which is visible from the ground. After the roof there is n...[more]Browse More Classics in SD
Pidgeon Roof sees a 2nd ascent? Suprising. But FA by Old Schooler? Ouch. I put this up in '86, and hoped that there would be something fun at the roof. It was a ground-up-drill-on-the-lead affair, but just 'cuz that was convenient. In fact two other routes that I put up around the same time at Old Baldy also went in as ground-up on-sites: Watching the Wild Things and Hydra-crack. Wonder if Wild Things has seen any traffic? Never got around to bolting a direct finish.
But if I had to pick a label (and who wants to be labeled?) it would Eclectic Schooler. Quality endures. Vern Phinney's "Recedeing Fallline", just left of Pidgeon Roof was a good line in the neighborhood, too. - Mark J.
Sorry Mark Jacobs,I did not mean to put you down. I simply did not have the guide book anywhere near me. I had thought of doing this route for years and never new who put it up. As for the second ascent I am sure someone else has done it in the past 20 years. Watching the wild things on the other hand does not get done much at all. I dont know anyone who has. Is it well protected in the hard parts? Old schoolers and eclectic schoolers are still found practicing rock craft around here not as much as the yester year but they are still around. I am still young and many of my peers think that ground up routes are "old school" and will never be as good a rap bolted route. I think putting a route from the ground up is about as fun as any aspect of climbing. Some of my best memories are of going up into the unknown and finding something, falling off, or weighting hooks to drill.The saticfaction you get out of that and the relationship you develop with the route becomes very special. Well anyway sorry for the misinformation, I hope you get over it.
Hello Curt,Didn't intend to sound offended. Just that the "Old Schooler" comment hit me as particularly ironic since Vern P. pinned whole the Rushmore "rap" on myself and Carl Coy in an essay in his guidebook. I'll gladly take the blame/credit, but what I advocated was putting up routes that you would want to repeat, in whatever style. And honesty about the style that you used. If you can do that and still get in some adventure, hat's off to you. I never liked mixing drilling and climbing. But you do get back from a route what you put into it.
Watching the Wild Things takes great pro, as I remember. Small wires to large fingers (?). Did it a couple of times. Vern showed me the line, and we had a memorable day with the goats and the eagles. The route headed right at the roof that caps the diehedral, and it seemed like cheating. Old Baldy was well off the beaten path in '86. Looks like boulder central now. What a spectacular playground. I'm in Portland, OR these days and when August comes around, I do miss the Hills.
Enjoyed the write-up on Pidgeon Roof, and thanks for the reply,Mark J.
Hello Mark,I am going to baldy this monday. I plan to do watching the wild things, only tommorow will tell. Lets say I get to the top and go right but see something staight up would you mind if I bolted the finish, and put in a new anchor if needed? Not monday of course but some other day.
Curt,By all means, if you think there's a direct finish on Wild Things that's worth adding, I'ld encourage you to put it up. Or add an anchor, as you think best. Seems early to be climbing in the shade, but I forget that you're living in the Banana Belt of the Dakotas.And I've gotten soft.Best Regards,Mark J.