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Redgarden - Tower Two
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
10,000 Leagues T 
After The Gold Rush T 
Avoid the Rush T 
Bolting for Glory T 
Briny Deep, The T 
Cave Pitch T 
Centaur T,S 
Contest, The S 
Diving Board, The T 
Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty) S 
Fools Learn TR 
Genius Loci S 
Ghoul's Turn T,TR 
Green Willow Wall T,S 
Inset, The T 
Jules Verne T 
Jules Verne Straight Up First Pitch Variation T 
King Tut T 
Le Void T 
Lene's Dream T 
Love Minus Zero T 
Naked Edge, The T 
No Lo Contendere T,S,TR 
Old Bad Aid Crack T 
One Way Out T 
Orifophobia T 
Plastic Jesus T 
Predator T,S 
PsychGillLogical T 
Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent T,S 
Rosy Crucifixion T 
Scratch and Sniff T,S,TR 
Seams Beyond T 
Seize of Holds T 
Serpent, The T 
Shasta T 
Sickness Unto Death S 
Slots of Fun T 
Slow Train Coming T,S 
Superlink, The T 
T2 T 
T2 Direct Finish T 
Touch 'N' Go T 
Weeping Willow T 
Wild Kingdom T,S 
Wingless Victory S 

Old Bad Aid Crack 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: FA Stan Shepard (A4 - 1961), FFA David Breashears (1976)
Page Views: 131
Submitted By: Aaron Ramras on Mar 5, 2014

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  • Description 

    This exciting climb begins at a roof with a thin seam above. It has very nice climbing on an aesthetic wall. Good-sized campus moves on buckets lead to a flake in which gear can be had. Continue with adequate gear to a stance at the obvious overlap. From here, fire the very committing and somewhat reachy crux with easier, runnout clmbing above. It seemed to me like it would be possible to traverse left to T2 if the crux doesn't feel right.... Finish on a ledge and either traverse to the T2 anchors or the midway anchors on Touch 'N' Go to descend.

    Location 

    This starts to the right of the start of T2 on a flat stance.

    Protection 

    - Aliens from blue up to red.
    - Small nuts and RPs (offsets helpful).
    - One may also be able to place a #4-#5 Camalot at the crux? I did not have one to test the theory, but the placement looked strange.


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