Old and the Bold 5.10c
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| Type: | Trad, 5 pitches |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | Tai DeVore, Greg Smith, Jeremy Freeman et al. |
| Submitted By: | fossana on Jul 18, 2011 |
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BETA PHOTO: looking up the route from the base
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Description P1 (10c, 18 bolts)
Starting to the right of the pillar climb up a seam passing a rap station just left of the route ~half way up the pitch (you'll use it on the descent). Note: This pitch has the crappiest rock on the route. If you can get through it you'll be rewarded with some fun pitches on better rock up top. The route is worth more stars as this pitch cleans up.
P2 (10a, 3 bolts, gear to #4 Camalot)
Head up a short but awkward grainy crack past 2 bolts to a black chimney. Follow easier ground up the right-most crack system on better rock.
P3 (8, 10 bolts, gear to #2 Camalot)
Clip a bolt and step right around the arete onto a varnished face. Head up the face to the bolted anchor (hanging belay) or build a more cushy on a shrubby ledge at the base of the 10b corner.
P4 (10b, gear to #4 Camalot)
Grunt up the left-facing corner. Belay from either the top of the corner or at the base of the next left-facing corner.
P5 (10b, 2 bolts, gear to #4)
Head up the left-facing corner clipping a bolt under the roof as you traverse to the anchor.
Location The route starts just uphill from the pillar that sits on the right half of Big Horn Wall and climbs a reddish wall continuing through a break in the prominent roof system. The route stays shady even in summer.
DESCENT
Rap the route with 6 35m raps.
Protection 70m rope
Gear to #4 Camalot, extra #1-3s (nuts not necessary). Note: If you use the alternate belay for P3 you'll use up a #2. The next pitch is fairly sustained #2s and #3s so if you're not solid at that size consider triples.
BETA PHOTO: start of P1
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looking up Pine Creek Canyon
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BETA PHOTO: start of P2
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Joe on P1
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looking down P2
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Joe leading P3
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Michelle leading P4
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Joe working the stem on P5
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| Comments on Old and the Bold |
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By Neil Kauffman
Jul 23, 2011
| Nice route that gets some killer air under your feet! The first pitch is still a bit gritty with some loose holds which made it feel a little serious; it's well protected and should clean up with some more traffic. A single rack to .75 camalot, with doubles to #3, would be a great rack, the #4 got placed on P4 but wasn't necessary. Anyone know about the older-style 1/4" bolts on the route? |
By Jason Chinchen
From: Bishop, Califonia
Jul 27, 2011
| Had fun on this! The last pitch is sick!
Great job Tai! |
By jeremy freeman
Feb 16, 2012
| neil, those 1/4" bolts were from the first acent party, who they are we have no clue. We assume that they continued to the top of the feature, but again thats just speculation. |
By Wylie
From: Hell, MI
Jun 17, 2012
| I loved the first pitch and found the rock to be not so bad. It goes on forever! |
By jbarnett
From: Bishop Ca.
Aug 24, 2012
| FYI
Pulled a large block off at the 3rd bolt on the 1st pitch.
Not sure how difficult it is now, didn't continue. |
By fossana
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Jun 4, 2013
| Way to go wreck the route, James ;) |
By pointy
From: at large
Jun 7, 2013
| Climbed this today. Pitch 1 is definitely cleaning up. It's long. On pitch 3, the bushy ledge is a much better place to finish than the bolted anchor, but there's still some loose rock on the ledge and in the start of the corner above, take care if there are parties below. I second Neil's comments on the rack. |
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