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 ADVANCED
The Bear
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bear Arete, The S 
Bear Crack, The T 
Bear Cub Crack T 
Bear Fingers T 
Bear's Choice S 
Beast of Burden S 
Beast, The T 
Black Hole Sun S 
Body Snatcher S 
Jason and the Argonauts S,TR 
Jekyll and Hyde S 
Just Bearly T 
Kidnapped S 
Kill Uncle S,TR 
Kodiak S 
Lower Arete S,TR 
Mark's Moderate T,S 
Napa Valley Party Service S 
Old And In The Way S 
Polar Bear Spire S 
Rampage S 
Silverado Squatters S 
Smash n Grab S 
Stone Free S 
Swallow My Pride S 
Theodore Roosevelt S,TR 
Treasure Island S 
Uncle Tom S 
Ursa Major T 
Ursa Minor, aka: Guillotine Crack T 
Wayne's World S 
Unsorted Routes:

Old And In The Way 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 214
Submitted By: caughtinside on May 5, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Description 

Old and In the Way... where to start? Might as well be at the first bolt. The first bolt is tricky and delicate to clip, that big chalked up rail is sadly not as good as it looks. Holding on with one hand with grim feet is a challenge.

But the action starts right after you make the clip! Those grim holds get worse as you move up, feet are surprisingly tough to come by and the holds above are small and distressingly far.

I'll come clean. I led this climb, but it wasn't clean. I A-Zeroed the crux by pulling on the first draw. The old guide says .11c, but I couldn't pull the move so I'm speculating with the .11c. The rest of the climb is much easier, maybe mid .10 with a fun mantle move on the blob at the 3rd bolt.

Very different in character from the other crag .11c Beast of Burden.


Location 

Right of the chimney in the center of the crag, first route right of Black Hole Sun. Left of Bear's Choice.


Protection 

5 bolts



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By Dodrill
From: Sebastopol, CA
May 14, 2008

It's not THAT hard. One Crimp and its over. 5.11b.

The climb is the second route RIGHT of the chimney, between Black Hole Sun and Bear's Choice, in other words: RIGHT of BHS and LEFT of Bear's Choice.

Amen.

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
May 15, 2008

Thanks Jerry, I changed the description a bit, don't know why I forgot my right from my left there.

.11b? Couldn't you at least be a little charitable and give me .11c, or at least .11b+? I'm going to have to stop climbing up there, my ego just can't take the smackdown!

By steple
Apr 2, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The crux is only two moves short. The crimps are small but sharp. Soft 5.11 I say. The rest of the route is much easier - but very enjoyable! I found no chalk marks and a loose hold.

By stevecurtis
From: Petaluma California
Dec 28, 2012

I finally did this with Jerry's beta from Jonathan. I suppose this might feel like a soft 11 to someone accustomed to 10 ft routes on the damp side of a boulder. For me, the first bit is harder than anything on stone free or the other 12As on the cliff. But I'm an endurance climber.