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Catwalk Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blood Clot 
Cruel Sister 
Dire Wolf 
Erogenous Zone 
Full Court Press 
Greasy Spoon 
Ground Zero 
Last Chance 
Old And In The Way 
Patent Leather Pump 
Pearl, The 
Pet Cemetary 
Religious Fervor 
Rising Star 
Satan's Awaiting 
Sitting Duck 
Southern Cross 
Unsorted Routes:

Old And In The Way 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ...give me a day, gotta check the book...
Season: year round
Page Views: 313
Submitted By: rpc on Mar 25, 2008
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Our friend Haydar belaying me up Old And In The Wa...
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This 2-star route is typical of the Lower Gorge (my experience anyway): distinct curxes but not sustained (as opposed to 3- & 4-star lines). The first crux hits at the very bottom as you try to establish yourself in either a stem position or with both feet in the flared handcrack pod. Good rest awaits on ledge 15 feet up. Above, layback and/or stemming brings you to the upper crux: delicate stemming into another 6" wide pod. Once you get your feet in it, you've essentially done the route. Easier terrain (~5.8) brings you to anchors (on right side) atop Patent Leather Pump.


West side of Lower Gorge on Catwalk Cliff immediately left of Patent Leather Pump (which in turn is 50 feet left of Cruel Sister).


Set of cams from smallest (black Alien or 00 TCU) to #2 Camalot. Double black Aliens (for me anyway), double yellow Aliens and double on #0.5 Camalots. This being at my limit, I found a #4 HB offset eased my mind on the start move but many things will work & strong leaders need not worry.

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