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Old Anchors and Tat at Indian Creek (compiling a list of anchors that need upgrades)
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By Luke Mehall
From Durango, Colorado
Oct 25, 2013
Freedom
A few friends and myself are working with the ASCA to replace anchors at Indian Creek. If everyone would be so kind to post up routes they know need some love that would be much appreciated.

I've noticed there are many high quality routes that still have tat (old webbing) and ancient bolts (quarter inchers and homemade Hong hangers with old bolts etc.). It would be great to fix these up before someone gets hurt or killed.

Thanks in advance for posting, and please try to describe the anchor and/or take a photo of it.

Also include: route name and the wall it is on.

Here's an example of an anchor we improved on Polygrip, Broken Tooth wall, right next to
the always gangbanged Rock Lobster.

This was the anchor on Polygrip before a 1/2 inch ...
This was the anchor on Polygrip before a 1/2 inch bolt was added, replacing the old homemade hanger with old bolt. We also removed all the tat, replacing it with chain.


cheers,
Luke

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By slim
Administrator
Oct 25, 2013
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
thanks luke!!

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By Mr. Stevens
From Boulder, CO
Oct 25, 2013
The Blue Gramma anchors could use some help (just the climb, not the whole wall...). I remember the anchor being a bolt and 1-2 drilled pitons. Don't remember the exact state of it, but I do remember seeing it and thinking it could use some new hardware.

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By Crotch Robbins
Oct 25, 2013
MC's Hammer up at the Cliffs of Insanity sticks in my memory. I don't recall what was there but remember thinking that I'd bring a bolt kit with me next time.

edit - two drilled angles according Doug Fulford mountainproject.com/v/mcs-hamm...

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By 303scott
Oct 25, 2013
As I recall, pitch 2 of this climb has one manky pin and a girth-hitched, completely smooth, hangarless bolt.

Rarely done (perhaps due to bad anchor), really nice pitch in a very crowded area. mountainproject.com/v/unknown/...

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By claramie
From Boulder, CO
Oct 25, 2013
Should I be trying this hard on a warmup?  photo b...
the rap off of bridger jack butte (to the saddle between it and king of pain) could use some love. the P1 "anchor" on rimshot is a single drilled angle and a loose fixed nut. the top "anchor" on rimshot is a single old bolt.

unnamed 11- left of last battle on battle of the bulge was a single bolt last time I did that.

Thanks Luke!!!

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By JFF
From Durango, CO
Oct 26, 2013
Warm Up Handcrack - Res Wall --- it looks like that pic above. kind of a junkshow of webbing

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By Alex Baker
Oct 26, 2013
What are you guys replacing old anchors with?

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By Greg G
From SLC, UT
Oct 26, 2013
The route in it's entirety.
Neutron Dance on Cactus Flower has an old anchor up top.

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By Mark Grundon
Oct 26, 2013
Yeah Luke! Do you think any of that tat would be available for re-sale?

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By Rob Dillon
Oct 26, 2013
Hey I love seeing the cool old Hong or Banditos bolts. Sometimes they're actually still OK.
Thanks for all your work,
and,
consider this a plea for leaving the cool relics and maybe drilling a new hole as needed. I think it's important that a sense of history remains amid the buttcracks and dogs and tape wads and beta.

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By mountainhick
From Black Hawk, CO
Oct 26, 2013
Hmm, it's been a while, but if still unchanged:

5.10+ listed as left of the naked and the dead Donnelly (Actually just left of Fuel injected hard body): mountainproject.com/v/unknown-...

And an unnamed route, it was either # 37 or 38 Bloom second edition reservoir wall Anchor of machine bolts of unknown heritage, no hangers, just slung with tat.

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By hrdeyo
From Longmont, CO
Oct 26, 2013
To skin a Cat at cat wall. Bolt and a large nut, Webbing is white now may have been orange at some point.

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By Greg G
From SLC, UT
Oct 26, 2013
The route in it's entirety.
Ben Hicks wrote:
Hmm, it's been a while, but if still unchanged: 5.10+ listed as left of the naked and the dead Donnelly (Actually just left of Fuel injected hard body): mountainproject.com/v/unknown-... And an unnamed route, it was either # 37 or 38 Bloom second edition reservoir wall Anchor of machine bolts of unknown heritage, no hangers, just slung with tat.


New bolts are on this route as of last weekend. They're placed above the pre-existing machine bolts, and bomber. Unfortunately the machine bolts look to be difficult to remove so they're still there, but not hurting anyone.

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By Timmy Foulkes
Oct 28, 2013
climbing at EA
Thank you to all who have posted so far for your positive and informational replies. This info along with the list Luke and I have already compiled will be very helpful in our process to keep the Creek the best trad crag in the world. Please keep the posts coming in as the more info we have, the more work we can get done. Thanks again. We really appreciate your input.

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By Luke Mehall
From Durango, Colorado
Oct 28, 2013
Freedom
Yes, sweet thanks everyone, let's keep this thread going, good to see something positive on the forum!

Oh, I can't wait to get on the MC's Hammer, will def. get up there soon! My favorite artist of the 90s, and the line looks splitter!

And to Rob Dillon: I usually leave the Hong bolts in the rock but just out of the system. I've heard rumors of people decking because of them pulling (when there was the old one bolt anchors) but never seen anything documented of that happening, so who knows. I don't know for sure how safe/dangerous they actually are, just that they are old.

Grundon, I'll get you a good deal on some tat!

Thanks again everyone!

peace,
Luke

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By slim
Administrator
Oct 29, 2013
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
Luke Mehall wrote:
Yes, sweet thanks everyone, let's keep this thread going, good to see something positive on the forum! Oh, I can't wait to get on the MC's Hammer, will def. get up there soon! My favorite artist of the 90s, and the line looks splitter! And to Rob Dillon: I usually leave the Hong bolts in the rock but just out of the system. I've heard rumors of people decking because of them pulling (when there was the old one bolt anchors) but never seen anything documented of that happening, so who knows. I don't know for sure how safe/dangerous they actually are, just that they are old. Grundon, I'll get you a good deal on some tat! Thanks again everyone! peace, Luke


IIRC, a guy named tom pulled a single bolt hong anchor at cat wall, i think maybe fat cat, probably around 93 or so.

if you ever get around to climbing at slug wall there are/were a bunch of anchors there that suck. beat up old stoppers hitched around bolt studs.

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By SoBrave
Oct 29, 2013
T-Bones Tonight at 2nd meat has 2 old (hong?) bolts equalized with tat. Lt. Uhuru at Scarface has 3 pins also equalized by tat iirc.

Thanks for all the work you guys are doing, polygrip looks great.

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By Luke Mehall
From Durango, Colorado
Oct 29, 2013
Freedom
I found this photo while looking through some stuff last night. If you've ever wondered what an old 1/4 inch bolt looks like this is it, set next to a 1/2 inch bolt that is 3 inches long (a standard bolt for Indian Creek).

old quarter incher, and new 1/2 by 3 inch. bolt.
old quarter incher, and new 1/2 by 3 inch. bolt.

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By doligo
Oct 29, 2013
Jose Cuervo Fruitcups dirtbag style
2 of 3 bolts on Nine Lives are spinners, IIRC. Camping Under Influence anchor always gives me a pause (you have to pull up and out on two old pins to take the weight off to clean them, I always place a cam to back them up), just make sure you don't change the character of the climb when you replace the anchors ;) I also remember the unnamed 5.10 on far left side of the Cliffs of Insanity having a pretty sketchy anchor.

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By nicelegs
From Denver
Oct 29, 2013
Hey, I've got a crazy thought.

What do you guys think about glue ins? The sandstone is soft enough that eventually most hangers spin, even if the bolt is still solid. Certainly it will take longer and more setup but should last forever.

Overkill? a bit. I fell in love with them in soft rock and see very few disadvantages. I think if I ever replace more anchors out there, I'd use glue ins.

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By Luke Stefurak
From Seattle, WA
Oct 29, 2013
Below "Inspect Her Gadget" at HP40 after...
I think a bunch of stuff at the reservoir wall could use some help.

I think Gurka, Middle Crack etc, have a bunch of tatty/wacky anchors.

Thanks for fixing things up! Also make sure to look at the MP.com pages.

I've written up a few that I've updated or need updating.

If you go to Optimator bring some spray paint. I replaced some chains but didn't have any paint. Same for Heat Searcher on Broken Tooth. Hardware is solid but high viz.

- Luke

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By Luke Mehall
From Durango, Colorado
Nov 5, 2013
Freedom
Alex Baker wrote:
What are you guys replacing old anchors with?


We are using 1/2 inch. expansion bolts three inches long. The same ones in the pic. above with the quarter inch bolts. We also use chains, quicklinks and rings. Definitely spray paint the shiny hardware with maroon-ish paint so that its not easily visible from the road.

This list is growing by the day. Thanks for everyone that has reached out. There's definitely plenty of work that needs to be done out there.

peace,
Luke

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By Evan Belknap
From Placitas, NM
Nov 5, 2013
Cochise Stronghold—me on the left
The rap stations off hummingbird spire need some love. Scary watching those old pitons flex in their holes...

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By Ryu
Nov 5, 2013
The anchors of Technicolor on technicolor wall. I believe they are old pitons. Thanks a lot Luke!

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By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From Phoenix, AZ
Nov 5, 2013
Belay
Moved to 'Southern Utah/Deserts'.

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