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The Shark's Fin
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Ol' White Pappy 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,146
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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"Ol' White Pappy". Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

Climbs the right side of the North Face, past 7 bolts.

Protection 

Draws.


Photos of Ol' White Pappy Slideshow Add Photo
Just scoping out the route while tossing back a fe...
Just scoping out the route while tossing back a fe...
An OK view of the route. The climber in the pictur...
An OK view of the route. The climber in the pictur...
"Ol' White Pappy". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Ol' White Pappy". Photo by Blitzo.
An OK view of the route. The climber in the pictur...
An OK view of the route. The climber in the pictur...
Myles on the Sharksfin
Myles on the Sharksfin

Comments on Ol' White Pappy Add Comment
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By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
May 4, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Hard to grade or really star this quasi pile. Sure the rock is good, in some areas of the route, but where does the route really go? If you stay way right on the arete, the rock is pretty bad as a fair amount of holds are actually around the corner away from the good rock. Some are total crap and the next 4mph wind will probably liberate them from the formation. If you stay kinda to the left, you could actually clip the bolts for FBM as you pretend you are on OWP..... I guess it is best to just call it a squeeze job, somewhat contrived, and a forced line, then have some fun on it....
By Michael Bartosek
From: Los Angeles
Apr 13, 2011

I found a line that stayed true to the bolts with only use of the right arete to get on the route and then from the last bolt to the top. Never had to wander to the route on the left. Seems like a fun climb no matter how you do it.
By Randy in Ridgecrest
From: Inyokern, CA
May 4, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This line grows on you, beautiful rock and exposed. The top does require some firmness to not bail far left. At the last bolt there is a 10c sequence (stemming) just left of the arete, or the 10bc jug haul just right of the arete. Straight up the arete? Maybe 11a with normal reach. Add a little fun by stemming up the flare to the first bolt.
By BAd
Mar 15, 2015
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Boy, I found this pretty tough and took a little hang trying to work the arete straight up above the last bolt. I quickly found a tiny crimp on the left that allowed me to get up and work over to the jugs near the top. 11a? Don't know, but it is a hard move. Somehow, it didn't seem workable to swing around to the jugs on the overhanging side. Next time up, I think I'll be able to get it in one go. My wife ended up trending to the middle--left below the last bolt and merged with the left arete to get to the anchors. This is probably the most natural line. Of course, the two routes are really close together at the top. With a longer quick draw or sling on the upper bolts of White Pappy, moving left should be reasonable--and this probably provides the best combo of climbing on the face. Those edges up high center and left are wonderful.
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