Yellow Corner 

Good route for the grade, but the gear can be a little tricky to place. Many of the cracks are flaring, and the protection isn't as straight forward as on other 5.5s.

Oklahoma Select gives this a 5.7, why?

5.7?

I am not knocking Tony, by any means. He crusies most 12's, and solos 10's. So his perception of the difference between a 5.5 and a 5.7 is sort of jadeded. That is, to him, everything below 5.8 is just 5.FUN , and it all sort of looks about the same. Consider this, could you differenciate between a 5.3 and 5.1? I know that I would be hard pressed to.

Really, ratings are great to measure yourself, but nothing to live and die by. I try to use them as a guide, so when I attempt a new route it will fall somewhere in the range of that rating maybe harder, or easier, but somewhere close.

Well, it has been a long while since I have done this route, but I feel the grade is 5.7. I remember never having climbed it before and reading the Chuck's book that said 5.5, I was soloing that day and decided to do it. I felt soild soloing 5.8 at the time, but was surprised by the 5.5 grade. Felt harder than that to me. Two cents deposited.

Good points here.

Addressing one, gear, and the difficulty of placing that gear. This has no bearing of the actual difficulty rating attached to a route. A route being run-out, or having sketchy gear is usually reflected in the X or RX ratings, not the YDS numbers.

I am not sure if that was the inital point, but I just wanted to be clarify, and make this point, applicable or not.