This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Wichita Wildlife Refuge page.
Description
P1: 5.10R, maybe X. Begin in the poison ivy and climb the corner. When the crack ends at a bulge, gear up really good, then face climb right a few moves and then up and around the bulge (run-out). It is possible to get a nut in a pocket in the middle of the face. You can then traverse back to the crack for pro or go straight up (slightly easier) to the bolted anchors.
P2: 5.11R. Crank up the wall just to the left of the anchors. About 10 feet up, you can use a rotten flake, but pull down (not out!). Get the first bolt, then go up the underclings past another bolt and then right to a hand crack. A #4 TCU can be placed in the undercling above the first bolt. Follow the crack up and to the right to a nice ledge with bolted anchors.
Now grab the draws and head up Spaceballs!!
Location
The corner left of the main pool with all the poison ivy. 2 single-rope raps from the top of Spaceballs.
Probably one of the best routes anywhere! The first pitch can also be protected with a 00 Wild Country in the pocket on the face. It may not be a very great placement, but it instills a little confidence.
By Jordan Ramey From: South Pasadena, CA Jan 31, 2007
Its three single raps to the ground from the top of spaceballs (since that linkup means three pitches).
Lichen Wall
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