This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Wichita Wildlife Refuge page.
BETA PHOTO: Picture shows Birthday Boy (1), High Anxiety (2), ...
Description
A great, clean, and very steep 5.6 crack/face climb using the crack for protection. The rock is solid (with the exception of a hold 5 Ft off the deck) and the crack takes gear very well. A great climb to learn Trad on. The crux is about 10 feet off the ground. Protect early to avoid sliding down the slab at the base. I am some what surprised this is not a classic 5.6 for the Wichita's. Note-one of the first holds starting out the climb is getting lose and may fall off soon. Use caution.
Location
Climb the crack about 15 to the left of High Anxiety.
Protection
Nut, hexes, and cams to 2-3 inches. Trad anchor (bring webbing approximately 10 Ft to sling boulder) or use High Anxiety anchors with some rope drag.
The route is neither great, nor clean, I'm not surprised it isn't a classic. Good climbing for about thirty feet, then it becomes a series of dirty ledges.
By Andy Chasteen From: Oklahoma City, OK Jan 28, 2008
I agree with you Murry of Furry-ness. Clean down low, then choss fest up top.