This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Wichita Wildlife Refuge page.
Description
Sustained climbing and sometimes slick at the begining if it has been raining. Apparently there is a small TCU placement up high on the route, but I've never seen it. I've only toproped it, but it looked very well bolted. This is one of my (and Tony Mayse's) favorite refuge climbs!
Seems almost like 2 distinct climbs. Starts out with slopey liebacks and strenous (for me) underclings then goes to classic edging crimpers for the second half.
Location
Immediately left and uphill of "Rap Bolters from Hell"
Protection
Good Bolts. 2 bolt anchor at top. Can double rap down.
By furrymurry From: Washington D.C. Jul 9, 2007 rating: 5.11c
The cam placement (yellow alien size) is after the final bolt in the horizontal, flaring crack that is somewhat of a resting hold. It is not entirely necessary, but if you skip it you do get a little ways above that last bolt for the final crux.