Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Lost Dome
Show routes:
Select route...
Baptist on the Rampage 
Blades of Steel 
Come and Get Your Love 
Crack a Lo Lo 
Drop Dead 
For A Rocker 
Fuson's Folly (aka Larry's Folly) 
Hand Crack 
Last Rites 
Lost My Religion 
Made in the Shade 
Rap Bolters from Hell 
Slime of the Century 
Steep Show 
Tied to the Whipping Post 
UnNamed 

Fuson's Folly (aka Larry's Folly) 

5.9-

   

FA: Larry Fuson?
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9- [details]
Length: 2 pitches
Views: 136 page views

Submitted By: Jordan Ramey on Jan 31, 2007


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Wichita Wildlife Refuge page.

BETA PHOTO: Dan Schuerch at the top of pitch 1. Pin marked wi...


Description 

There is an old pin that was placed at the crux mantle move. Try not to test it since it was placed circa 1980. I've seen falls on it and it seems fine though. After the mantle move it is easy climbing. Make trad belay once you enter the alcove. I believe it takes medium / small cams. 2nd pitch: climb out of alcove onto face or chimney up and out higher up. Almost no pro on 2nd pitch, but you'd fall into the crack and not off the rock so its not really dangerous. Finish on top of a boulder after coming out of the alcove at a two bolt anchor.


Location 

Climbs most obvious crack into a chimney on the same face and to the right of "Tied to the Whipping Post".


Protection 

Normal Refuge rack. One fixed pin on 1st pitch below the mantel crux. Finish at the 2 bolt anchor with rap ring ontop of a small boulder up and left after the chimney. Takes 2 ropes to double down to the ground or as use the Rap Bolters from Hell station as the intermediate.



Add Photo Photos of Fuson's Folly (aka Larry's Folly)
Jordan Ramey before he tests the pin, by accidently falling on it like he always does :)

Jordan Ramey before he tests the pin, by accidentl...

Different angle of Jordan preparing for his inevitable fall onto old man pin.

Different angle of Jordan preparing for his inevit...

Jordan Ramey on the chimney second pitch of Fuson's Folly.  Gear is possible, just keep your eyes open.

Jordan Ramey on the chimney second pitch of Fuson'...

Brian Water leading, good shot of the whole route

BETA PHOTO: Brian Water leading, good shot of the whole route

Kate Chandler on the crux of Fuson's Folly, the undercling works pretty well.

BETA PHOTO: Kate Chandler on the crux of Fuson's Folly, the un...

Steven Charles pulls the crux move over the fixed pin on Folly, 9-, WMWR, Oklahoma.

BETA PHOTO: Steven Charles pulls the crux move over the fixed ...


Add Comment Comments on Fuson's Folly (aka Larry's Folly)
Show which comments
By drubt
From: Stillwater, OK
Jul 2, 2007
rating: 5.8+

or you can always rap to the the anchors for Rap Bolters and Whipping post, clip in and then rap again.