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Slime of the Century 

5.11

   

FA: 
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11b/c [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 107 page views

Submitted By: Jordan Ramey on Jan 31, 2007


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This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Wichita Wildlife Refuge page.

Description 

Sustained climbing and sometimes slick at the begining if it has been raining. Apparently there is a small TCU placement up high on the route, but I've never seen it. I've only toproped it, but it looked very well bolted. This is one of my (and Tony Mayse's) favorite refuge climbs!

Seems almost like 2 distinct climbs. Starts out with slopey liebacks and strenous (for me) underclings then goes to classic edging crimpers for the second half.


Location 

Immediately left and uphill of "Rap Bolters from Hell"


Protection 

Good Bolts. 2 bolt anchor at top. Can double rap down.



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By furrymurry
From: Washington D.C.
Jul 9, 2007
rating: 5.11c

The cam placement (yellow alien size) is after the final bolt in the horizontal, flaring crack that is somewhat of a resting hold. It is not entirely necessary, but if you skip it you do get a little ways above that last bolt for the final crux.