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Lost Dome
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Baptist on the Rampage 
Blades of Steel 
Come and Get Your Love 
Crack a Lo Lo 
Drop Dead 
For A Rocker 
Fuson's Folly (aka Larry's Folly) 
Hand Crack 
Last Rites 
Lost My Religion 
Made in the Shade 
Rap Bolters from Hell 
Slime of the Century 
Steep Show 
Tied to the Whipping Post 
UnNamed 

Blades of Steel 

5.11

   

FA: 
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 144 page views

Submitted By: Jordan Ramey on Jan 31, 2007


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This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Wichita Wildlife Refuge page.

Dan Schuerch cleaning draws after lowering. I'm n...


Description 

Not so well protected sport route. Bolts are good. Thin moves that will require a little thinking.


Location 

On E. side of Lost Dome. Right ~50' of "For A Rocker" and "Made in the Shade" slightly uphill.


Protection 

Quickdraws, 3 bolts. 2 bolt anchor at top. Can rap down w/ a single 50m rope.



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By jcomp
From: OKC, OK
Jun 14, 2007
rating: 5.10d

3 bolts. According to Steve the route originally had 1 bolt. Must of been a hell of a stout route! It is hard and thin with 3 bolts.

By adampeters
From: Golden, Colorado
Jul 1, 2007
rating: 5.11

Yeah, this route description says that the route is well protected with the three bolts, however, that might be true if you stick clip the first two bolts as the description writer did. The route may not be runout per se, but it has a certain spicey quality to it.

By furrymurry
From: Washington D.C.
Jul 30, 2007
rating: 5.10c/d PG13

Surprising that I almost decked, since it's so well protected.

By Jordan Ramey
From: South Pasadena, CA
Jul 31, 2007

I changed the description since the consensus is that the bolts are not adequately spaced.

By Andy Chasteen
From: Oklahoma City, OK
Jan 28, 2008
rating: 5.10d

Crux comes after the first bolt, but once you get to the point of clipping the second bolt you are on fairly solid ground, albeit you might have a decent case of Elvis Leg going. Ground fall would probably never happen unless you have a dozing belayer. Hitting the tree, on the other hand, is a possibility.

By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
May 7, 2008

It isn't a deck if you blow the 2nd bolt, but it will put you back down into the tree with your belayer. Watched my buddy deck into his finace this past weekend. Stick clipped the 2nd. Originally the crack had some copper heads beat into it, which only remnants remain.

By steven charles
Oct 31, 2008

I dig this route. Fun slab moves, and gets the heart racing.