This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Wichita Wildlife Refuge page.
Dan Schuerch near top of "For a Rocker". Marked b...
Description
The crux is definitely the start. Its probably 5.10 face or 5.10 undercling / liebacks. Really not bad, just boulder problemy. Start about 8' right of the corner crack and move up left to gain the crack. Have someone spot you. You gain a great stance and can plug in 2 cams to start off the crack.
Location
SE corner of Lost Dome. Immediately right of Crack-a-lo-lo and around the corner. Start on the E. face and the crack will wind you around the corner. 2 bolt anchor at top (shared with Crack-a-lo-lo). Can double rap.
Protection
Normal refuge trad (nothing bigger than 1 #3 camalot). Can do with all cams easily.
By Andy Chasteen From: Oklahoma City, OK Jan 28, 2008 rating: 5.9
The beginning is more of a mental crux than anything. Fairly casual climbing to the crack, just high off the ground. I found that a .4 or .5 works very well in the first finger slot once you get into the crack.....or maybe that was a yellow C3? Killer jams once you get a couple feet into the crack. Good route to learn cracks.