This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Wichita Wildlife Refuge page.
BETA PHOTO: Dan Schuerch at the top of pitch 1. Pin marked wi...
Description
There is an old pin that was placed at the crux mantle move. Try not to test it since it was placed circa 1980. I've seen falls on it and it seems fine though. After the mantle move it is easy climbing. Make trad belay once you enter the alcove. I believe it takes medium / small cams. 2nd pitch: climb out of alcove onto face or chimney up and out higher up. Almost no pro on 2nd pitch, but you'd fall into the crack and not off the rock so its not really dangerous. Finish on top of a boulder after coming out of the alcove at a two bolt anchor.
Location
Climbs most obvious crack into a chimney on the same face and to the right of "Tied to the Whipping Post".
Protection
Normal Refuge rack. One fixed pin on 1st pitch below the mantel crux. Finish at the 2 bolt anchor with rap ring ontop of a small boulder up and left after the chimney. Takes 2 ropes to double down to the ground or as use the Rap Bolters from Hell station as the intermediate.
Add PhotoPhotos of Fuson's Folly (aka Larry's Folly)
Jordan Ramey before he tests the pin, by accidentl...
Different angle of Jordan preparing for his inevit...
Jordan Ramey on the chimney second pitch of Fuson'...
BETA PHOTO: Brian Water leading, good shot of the whole route
BETA PHOTO: Kate Chandler on the crux of Fuson's Folly, the un...
BETA PHOTO: Steven Charles pulls the crux move over the fixed ...
Add CommentComments on Fuson's Folly (aka Larry's Folly)
Show which comments —
By drubt From: Golden, CO Jul 2, 2007 rating: 5.8+
or you can always rap to the the anchors for Rap Bolters and Whipping post, clip in and then rap again.