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Rap Bolters from Hell 

5.12a

   

FA: Terry Andrews and Russell Dutnell
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 75 feet
Views: 222 page views

Submitted By: adampeters on Dec 26, 2006


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This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Wichita Wildlife Refuge page.

My lost dome at Lost Dome. Staring straight at Ra...


Description 

Climb up 15 feet or so to the first bolt, may want to have a spot, then begin a series of crimps to gain the second bolt. Move up and right and clip the third bolt from a mini-jug. Just past the third bolt is the crux; move through this section to clip a fixed pin and then clip the last bolt and mantle to the chains.

One of the best routes anywhere!


Location 

Right up the middle of the formation, just to the left of the water streak.


Protection 

Bolts, 5 QDs



Add Photo Photos of Rap Bolters from Hell
Steven Charles on Rap Bolters From Hell, 12a, Lost Dome, Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge.

BETA PHOTO: Steven Charles on Rap Bolters From Hell, 12a, Lost...


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By Jordan Ramey
From: South Pasadena, CA
Jan 31, 2007

This climb was bolted on rap and therefore many of the clips are very strenuous.

Edit: Ahh, maybe cause I'm short the clips seem hard. I TR'ed it and tried to make the clips then and found them hard.

By adampeters
From: Golden, Colorado
Feb 19, 2007

My bad, maybe I had a few too many beers when I submitted that, all in all, a great route! Actually, the bolts are well placed on this route from decent stances. The only one that may be semi-strenous is the second bolt, but you still have pretty good feet there too. The first bolt can be clipped off of the crimp in the A-frame shaped mini roof right below the bolt (harder), or you can layback a slopey sidepull to the left and get higher feet, this makes that clip much easier. The third bolt you can clip off the mini jug rest right before the crux move and then the pin and the remaining bolts are clipped off jugs, only problem is you are getting a little pumped at this time. Anyway, Terry did a great job bolting this route and it remains one of my favorite anywhere.

By steven charles
Oct 31, 2008

Great route! I had to work on it for quite a while to get down my beta. Well protected, however, IMHO, the first bolt is a little sketch, more due to the landing than anything else. Make sure your belayer has paid his dues spotting and can keep you safe if you peel. I thought there were a couple cruxes, between the second and fourth bolt, separated by the mini jug adam mentioned. The top mantle is no joke either. Man I'm psyched about this route. You know, there are routes you do once, check it off your list and you're happy to move on. Not this one, I'll do it over and over. Great route!