Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
This area is designated as Charon's Gardens Wilderness Area MORE INFO >>>
Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way.
The direct start to Moby Dick is the logical line here. I chose to pretty much go straight up underneath the first bolt as opposed to the arching undercling/crack thing to the left. Start on good holds just right and move back left to gain the undercling and crimp rail just under the first bolt. Move up on sharp and small holds past the first bolt, then keep it together for the rest of this bueno route known as Moby Dick! Awesome freaking climbing!
Location
This route is on the right side of the West Face.
Protection
Bolts, 6 or so, plus anchors!!! Yeah for anchors in the Wichitas!!!
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