Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
This area is designated as Charon's Gardens Wilderness Area MORE INFO >>>
Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way.
Shady morning. Full sun afternoon. Good winter wall. Sometimes crowded (3 groups). Excellent rock quality. Pull DOWN not out on flakes. They are solid down, possibly not out.
Getting There
Park in Sunset parking lot and take the trail to Crab Eyes. Follow the trail west and before the long plateau to Crab Eyes hang a left at a rock cairn / split in the trail and follow a dry creek bed. You will then see the dome on your left.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Echo Dome:
Anybody own a guide book that lists all the routes on this wall (a book other than Oklahoma Select?) I think I may have had an FA on this wall. There is a wide crack about 20-30ft right of Worm Hole. It starts off with a face with a small crack to protect then goes up to a wide crack that narrows towards the top, then tops out about half way up the dome and ends with a gully full of boulders to the top. It could have been climbed before, but it was pretty chossy, but could be cleaned for sure. I thought it was a fun climb and would be great for Trad n00bs like myself. I would say the route goes at 5.5-5.6. Still trying to think of a name for it though (that is if I truly got the FA).
Areas around those crags in the guidebooks have had traffic up pretty much everything. Unless you are clearing lots of brush ( like the new traverse on Crab Eyes), it has probably been done.
That said, there is always the exception. Routes at that grade might be passed over, being too easy to attract attention or a qualified climber. So, claim you first ascent, name the route, and post it up. If someone else has knocked it out already, or named it, they will speak up, but until then, congrats on the F.A.
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