Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
This area is designated as Charon's Gardens Wilderness Area MORE INFO >>>
Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way.
Sustained climbing and sometimes slick at the begining if it has been raining. Apparently there is a small TCU placement up high on the route, but I've never seen it. I've only toproped it, but it looked very well bolted. This is one of my (and Tony Mayse's) favorite refuge climbs!
Seems almost like 2 distinct climbs. Starts out with slopey liebacks and strenous (for me) underclings then goes to classic edging crimpers for the second half.
Location
Immediately left and uphill of "Rap Bolters from Hell"
Protection
Good Bolts. 2 bolt anchor at top. Can double rap down.
By furrymurry From: Washington D.C. Jul 9, 2007 rating: 5.11c
The cam placement (yellow alien size) is after the final bolt in the horizontal, flaring crack that is somewhat of a resting hold. It is not entirely necessary, but if you skip it you do get a little ways above that last bolt for the final crux.
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