Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
This area is designated as Charon's Gardens Wilderness Area MORE INFO >>>
Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way.
3 bolts. According to Steve the route originally had 1 bolt. Must of been a hell of a stout route! It is hard and thin with 3 bolts.
By adampeters From: Golden, Colorado Jul 1, 2007 rating: 5.11
Yeah, this route description says that the route is well protected with the three bolts, however, that might be true if you stick clip the first two bolts as the description writer did. The route may not be runout per se, but it has a certain spicey quality to it.
By furrymurry From: Washington D.C. Jul 30, 2007 rating: 5.10c/d PG13
Surprising that I almost decked, since it's so well protected.
By Jordan Ramey From: South Pasadena, CA Jul 31, 2007
I changed the description since the consensus is that the bolts are not adequately spaced.
By Andy Chasteen From: Oklahoma City, OK Jan 28, 2008 rating: 5.10d
Crux comes after the first bolt, but once you get to the point of clipping the second bolt you are on fairly solid ground, albeit you might have a decent case of Elvis Leg going. Ground fall would probably never happen unless you have a dozing belayer. Hitting the tree, on the other hand, is a possibility.
It isn't a deck if you blow the 2nd bolt, but it will put you back down into the tree with your belayer. Watched my buddy deck into his finace this past weekend. Stick clipped the 2nd. Originally the crack had some copper heads beat into it, which only remnants remain.
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