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Lost Dome
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Baptist on the Rampage 
Blades of Steel 
Come and Get Your Love 
Crack a Lo Lo 
Drop Dead 
For A Rocker 
Fuson's Folly (aka Larry's Folly) 
Hand Crack 
Last Rites 
Lost My Religion 
Made in the Shade 
Rap Bolters from Hell 
Slime of the Century 
Steep Show 
Tied to the Whipping Post 
UnNamed 

For A Rocker 

5.8+

   

FA: 
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9- [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 346 page views

Submitted By: Jordan Ramey on Jan 31, 2007


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  • Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>
  • This area is designated as Charon's Gardens Wilderness Area MORE INFO >>>

  • Dan Schuerch near top of "For a Rocker". Marked b...


    Description 

    The crux is definitely the start. Its probably 5.10 face or 5.10 undercling / liebacks. Really not bad, just boulder problemy. Start about 8' right of the corner crack and move up left to gain the crack. Have someone spot you. You gain a great stance and can plug in 2 cams to start off the crack.


    Location 

    SE corner of Lost Dome. Immediately right of Crack-a-lo-lo and around the corner. Start on the E. face and the crack will wind you around the corner. 2 bolt anchor at top (shared with Crack-a-lo-lo). Can double rap.


    Protection 

    Normal refuge trad (nothing bigger than 1 #3 camalot). Can do with all cams easily.



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    By Andy Chasteen
    From: Oklahoma City, OK
    Jan 28, 2008
    rating: 5.9

    The beginning is more of a mental crux than anything. Fairly casual climbing to the crack, just high off the ground. I found that a .4 or .5 works very well in the first finger slot once you get into the crack.....or maybe that was a yellow C3?
    Killer jams once you get a couple feet into the crack. Good route to learn cracks.