Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
This area is designated as Charon's Gardens Wilderness Area MORE INFO >>>
Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way.
My lost dome at Lost Dome. Staring straight at Ra...
Description
Climb up 15 feet or so to the first bolt, may want to have a spot, then begin a series of crimps to gain the second bolt. Move up and right and clip the third bolt from a mini-jug. Just past the third bolt is the crux; move through this section to clip a fixed pin and then clip the last bolt and mantle to the chains.
One of the best routes anywhere!
Location
Right up the middle of the formation, just to the left of the water streak.
My bad, maybe I had a few too many beers when I submitted that, all in all, a great route! Actually, the bolts are well placed on this route from decent stances. The only one that may be semi-strenous is the second bolt, but you still have pretty good feet there too. The first bolt can be clipped off of the crimp in the A-frame shaped mini roof right below the bolt (harder), or you can layback a slopey sidepull to the left and get higher feet, this makes that clip much easier. The third bolt you can clip off the mini jug rest right before the crux move and then the pin and the remaining bolts are clipped off jugs, only problem is you are getting a little pumped at this time. Anyway, Terry did a great job bolting this route and it remains one of my favorite anywhere.
Great route! I had to work on it for quite a while to get down my beta. Well protected, however, IMHO, the first bolt is a little sketch, more due to the landing than anything else. Make sure your belayer has paid his dues spotting and can keep you safe if you peel. I thought there were a couple cruxes, between the second and fourth bolt, separated by the mini jug adam mentioned. The top mantle is no joke either. Man I'm psyched about this route. You know, there are routes you do once, check it off your list and you're happy to move on. Not this one, I'll do it over and over. Great route!
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