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DescriptionClimbing year round. Look for the shade in the summer and sun in the winter. Spring and fall are the 'in' seasons. World Class granite is the name of the game with some nice boulders as well. The ratings are old school, so everything is solid. Getting There15 minutes west of Lawton Oklahoma, look for the Cache exit, head north into the reserve. GuidebookOklahoma Select "A Climber's Guide" is available at Sharpend books. In this 2004 guide book author Tony Mayse covers the best routes at Quartz Mountain and the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Wichita Wildlife Refuge:
Great Expectations 5.5 Trad, 1 pitch Charon's Gardens : Elk Slabs
The Dihedral 5.6 Trad, TR, 60 feet The Narrows : Zoo Wall
High Anxiety 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet Mount Scott : Lower Mount Scott
Ker Plunk 5.7 Trad, 2 pitches, 100 feet The Narrows : Lichen Wall
Fantasy Roof 5.8 Trad, TR, 45 feet The Narrows : Zoo Wall
Crazy Alice 5.8 Trad, 60 feet The Narrows : Zoo Wall
Mr. Clean 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 65 feet Mount Scott : Lower Mount Scott
For A Rocker 5.8+ Trad, 1 pitch Charon's Gardens : Lost Dome
Frosted Flakes 5.9 Sport, 70 feet Charon's Gardens : Echo Dome
Foolish Behavior 5.9+ PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Mount Scott : Upper Mount Scott
Come and Get Your Love 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Charon's Gardens : Lost Dome
Repeat After Me 5.10c PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Mount Scott : Lower Mount Scott
Dream Boat Annie 5.10c Trad, TR Mount Scott : Dream Boat Annie
Dr. Coolhead 5.10d X Trad, TR, 60 feet The Narrows : Zoo Wall
Layaway Plan 5.11a/b Sport, 60 feet Mount Scott : Lower Mount Scott
Slime of the Century 5.11 Sport, 1 pitch Charon's Gardens : Lost Dome
Aerial Anticipation 5.11c Sport, 60 feet The Narrows : Aerial Anticipation
League of Doom 5.11c R Trad, 2 pitches The Narrows : Lichen Wall
Rap Bolters from Hell 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet Charon's Gardens : Lost Dome
Tied to the Whipping Post 5.13a Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet Charon's Gardens : Lost Dome
Featured Route For Wichita Wildlife Refuge
Crazy Alice 5.8 OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : ... : Zoo Wall
The best 5.8 in the park, if not the entire state. Follow the zig zagging crack up the face. Great jams will have you wanting more. Crux is probably 20 feet off, where the crack slashes left to right. Balance can be hard since you always seem to be leaning one way or the other....[more] Browse More Classics in OK
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