Mountain Project: Climbing Wichita Wildlife Refuge

Climbing year round. Look for the shade in the summer and sun in the winter. Spring and fall are the 'in' seasons. World Class granite is the name of the game with some nice boulders as well. The ratings are old school, so everything is solid.

No booze and no guns inside the reserve. All areas open at 9 and close at sundown except the Mt. Scott. Be mindful of your speed in the reserve.

Getting There

15 minutes west of Lawton Oklahoma, look for the Cache exit, head north into the reserve.

Guidebook

Oklahoma Select "A Climber's Guide" is available at Sharpend books. In this 2004 guide book author Tony Mayse covers the best routes at Quartz Mountain and the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge.

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The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Wichita Wildlife Refuge:

Great Expectations 5.5 Trad, 1 pitch Charon's Gardens : Elk Slabs

The Dihedral 5.6 Trad, TR, 60 feet The Narrows : Zoo Wall

High Anxiety 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet Mount Scott : Lower Mount Scott

Ker Plunk 5.7 Trad, 2 pitches, 100 feet The Narrows : Lichen Wall

Fantasy Roof 5.8 Trad, TR, 45 feet The Narrows : Zoo Wall

Crazy Alice 5.8 Trad, 60 feet The Narrows : Zoo Wall

Mr. Clean 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 65 feet Mount Scott : Lower Mount Scott

For A Rocker 5.8+ Trad, 1 pitch Charon's Gardens : Lost Dome

Frosted Flakes 5.9 Sport, 70 feet Charon's Gardens : Echo Dome

Foolish Behavior 5.9+ PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Mount Scott : Upper Mount Scott

Come and Get Your Love 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Charon's Gardens : Lost Dome

Repeat After Me 5.10c PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Mount Scott : Lower Mount Scott

Dream Boat Annie 5.10c Trad, TR Mount Scott : Dream Boat Annie

Dr. Coolhead 5.10d X Trad, TR, 60 feet The Narrows : Zoo Wall

Layaway Plan 5.11a/b Sport, 60 feet Mount Scott : Lower Mount Scott

Slime of the Century 5.11 Sport, 1 pitch Charon's Gardens : Lost Dome

Aerial Anticipation 5.11c Sport, 60 feet The Narrows : Aerial Anticipation

League of Doom 5.11c R Trad, 2 pitches The Narrows : Lichen Wall

Rap Bolters from Hell 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet Charon's Gardens : Lost Dome

Tied to the Whipping Post 5.13a Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet Charon's Gardens : Lost Dome

Featured Route For Wichita Wildlife Refuge

Crazy Alice climbs the zig-zag cracks to the right of the black water streak. The Dihedral is on the left.

Crazy Alice 5.8 OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : ... : Zoo Wall

The best 5.8 in the park, if not the entire state. Follow the zig zagging crack up the face. Great jams will have you wanting more. Crux is probably 20 feet off, where the crack slashes left to right. Balance can be hard since you always seem to be leaning one way or the other....[more] Browse More Classics in OK

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Wichita Wildlife Refuge

Description

Getting There

Guidebook

The Classics