This area has access issues. Please read the details below.
Objective hazards when driving through the Wichita...
Description
Climbing year round. Look for the shade in the summer and sun in the winter. Spring and fall are the 'in' seasons. World Class granite is the name of the game with some nice boulders as well. The ratings are old school, so everything is solid.
No booze and no guns inside the reserve. All areas open at 9 and close at sundown except the Mt. Scott. Be mindful of your speed in the reserve.
Access is always an issue, please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
Getting There
15 minutes west of Lawton Oklahoma, look for the Cache exit, head north into the reserve.
Guidebook
Oklahoma Select "A Climber's Guide" is available at Sharpend books. In this 2004 guide book author Tony Mayse covers the best routes at Quartz Mountain and the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge.
Great Expectations climbs the prominent crack just to the left of the tiered dihedral system. Climb the slab using the crack for protection until the crack disappears. Head up and right to another lone tree and a two bolt rap anchor located on the wall. The route protects well all the way to the anchors – bring a good assortment of stoppers and cams. You can either rappel from the anchors with two ropes or continue up a second easy pitch. Th...[more]
Bridge Out on Charon's Garden Trail. The bridge that crosses Sunset Creek right after leaving Sunset parking lot has been washed out. This trial is used in part to access the Echo Dome, Pear and Apple, Tiny Bubbles, Crab Eyes, Lost Dome, Hidden Wall, and other climbing areas in Charon's garden wilderness area. The bridge can be bypassed by taking the concrete trial that starts on the North side of the parking lot and goes behind the out houses and eventually crosses the creek at a low water crossing, up stream, where it will regain the Charon's Garden trail.
A wallet and cell phone was stolen from the Treasure Lake parking area yesterday Feb. 24, 2008. The Treasure Lake parking area is commonly used to access Elk Slab, Crank Boulder, Treasure Cove, Post Oak Falls, and other climbing areas. The parking are is within walking distance of a home for troubled teenagers and theft from cars parked there is, unfortunately, a common occurrence. When parking at Treasure Lake or anywhere else in the refuge, remember to lock your doors and hide or take all valuables with you!
Wichita Wildlife Refuge
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