Oil Pan Hook Shot 5.11a/b
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.10c/d [details] |
| FA: | Rick Leitner, Richard Wright - April 1998 |
| Submitted By: | Jeff Lockyer on Oct 1, 2001 |
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Description This route is located on the upper tier of 'The Bowling Alley'. Climb the gully to the right of 'Take the Termites...' up to a ledge at the base of 2 bolted routes on the upper right hand side of the main wall. This route is the leftmost of the 2 routes. The crux comes at you right off the ground. There are 3 close bolts, (10+ back to back moves) once past this crux (keeping feet and hands away from the crack system left) the climbing eases to a final move to the anchor. The bottom of the route has nice moves but the rest leaves a little to be desired. Have fun.. You can toprope this route with a 60m rope by climbing up and around the routes to the right.
Protection 7 bolts - 2 bolt anchor.
| Comments on Oil Pan Hook Shot |
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By Anonymous Coward
Oct 24, 2002
| Another forgettable sport route, with a typical face climbing crux to start with, an easy middle section, and a fricking weird ending. Have fun clipping the last bolt if you're short. |
By ClimbandMine
Oct 28, 2002
| I agree with the above comment - the crux is made way easier if you're tall (my 6'4" buddy reached past the lieback seam and just grabbed the jug). Two one-move wonders with easy climbing in the middle. |
By Bo Johnston
Apr 11, 2005
rating: 5.10d
| I really liked the sequence of the first few moves and it made the route worth climbing. The finish was fun as well with a dyno-like move into the left finger crack leading to larger side clings to the top monster anchors!! |
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 27, 2005
rating: 5.10c
| 5.11? No way. I have climbed in the Bowling Alley twice now and noticed that the grades here are pretty soft, in general. I don't normally warm up on 5.12s. Seems like Sport Park grades, but without the chip-and-glue. It's not a bad route, but forgettable. |
By Richard Radcliffe
From: Louisville, CO
Nov 8, 2006
rating: 5.10d
| If this is the route I'm thinking it is, those are some weird-butt 'bolts' (the first two). |
By D. Shaw
Oct 7, 2008
rating: 5.11a/b PG13
| Did it a few times and the difficulty depends on how you do it, as is true of many routes. Stay a bit left at the crux and it is perhaps easier, which would also be true for a taller person. Top was wild/fun move. |
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