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Ohiopyle State Park

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Ohiopyle State Park  Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 39.8693, -79.4938 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 26,417
Administrators: Justin Johnsen, The Stoned Master, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tim Anderson on Oct 9, 2009
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Description 

Located in the Laurel Highlands region of Southwestern PA this State Park primarily a whitewater town, is now also known as a climbing destination. Centered around the Youghiogheny River, this park is well known for white water rafting and kayaking. Several crags reside along the Yough River Trail. Some reaching upwards of 100' in length these crags are a fun place to visit as the approach is made easy by bicycling down the converted railway bed approximately 4 miles directly to the crags situated just off the trail. Steep sport climbing is the norm and for the most part the climbing is widely unknown. 2008/2009 development should perk up the traffic at these cliffs. The added bonus is that when the pump get you and you want to chill, head down over the hillside and jump in the river to cool off. Also a great spot to hit in the winter as the crags get a great deal of sun.

Getting There 

From the West: From the PA Turnpike, take Exit 91, Donegal. Turn left onto PA 31 east. Travel about two miles, turn right onto PA 711 and PA 381 south. Travel ten miles to Normalville, turn left onto PA 381 south for 11 miles to Ohiopyle. From the East: From the PA Turnpike, take Exit 110, Somerset. Take PA 281 south 25 miles to Confluence. Continue three miles up hill and at the church, turn right onto Sugarloaf Road, SR 2012. Continue nine miles to Ohiopyle. From the South (DC, MD, VA): Take I-270 north to Frederick, then I-70 west to Hancock, then Rt. 40 and I-68 through Cumberland. Take Exit 14 (Keysers Ridge) to Rt. 40 west to Farmington, PA. Turn right onto PA 381 north for eight miles to Ohiopyle. From the South (WV): Take I-79 North to I-68 east. Take Bruceton Mills Exit to Rt. 26 north. At the PA border it becomes PA 281 north. Turn left onto PA 40 west, to Farmington, turn right onto PA 381 north to Ohiopyle. For GPS Units: Use this address for Ohiopyle State Park: 124 Main Street, Ohiopyle PA 15470. This should direct you to the center of the park. Follow signage once you are in the park to find your desired destination.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.9 miles from here

108 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',17],['3 Stars',47],['2 Stars',40],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',3],['5.8',3],['5.9',3],['5.10',10],['5.11',9],['5.12',4],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',23],['V4-5',22],['V6-7',12],['V8-9',6],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',3],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Ohiopyle State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Ohiopyle State Park :
Whale Tail   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   River's End
Flying Dutchman   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Sport, 70'   School House Crag
Cry Me a River   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 45'   School House Crag
Bil-Jac-Son   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Maple Wall
Solstice   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Sport, 80'   Maple Wall
Firefly   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 35'   School House Crag
The Bees Knees   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   River's End
Easier Said Than Done   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 50'   Bruner Run
Arachnophobia   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 75'   School House Crag
Humpty Dumpty   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 70'   School House Crag
Petrified   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   River's End
Good Day to Die   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 75'   School House Crag
O'Briens line   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 50'   Bruner Run
Shifticus   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Maple Wall
Redline   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 50'   Bruner Run
Natural Mystic   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 90'   School House Crag
Soul Rebel   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 70'   School House Crag
Loggia   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 85'   Maple Wall
Sludge Factory   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   River's End
Prince of Darkness   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 50'   Maple Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Ohiopyle State Park

Featured Route For Ohiopyle State Park
Rock Climbing Photo: Tim nearing the top of Redline.

Redline 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  PA : Southwestern Highlands : ... : Bruner Run
Begin 12' right of Easier Said than Done on the red streak. Follow the red streak up the bolt line, finishing on headwall above. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in PA

Photos of Ohiopyle State Park Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Skyler Anderson and I after a hard day of climbing...
Skyler Anderson and I after a hard day of climbing...
Rock Climbing Photo: Wood rat in his rocky home at the bottom of Maple ...
Wood rat in his rocky home at the bottom of Maple ...

Comments on Ohiopyle State Park Add Comment
Show which comments
By MattZ1
Jul 21, 2012
Can anyone confirm:
I was looking for climbing routes by Ohiopyle, and was told I had to pay a guide to climb there. I checked the Ohiopyle website through PA DCNR, and it says nothing about this.

Has anyone had issues simply going out there and climbing?

Thanks,

Matt
By Pete Baertsch
From: Connellsville, PA
Aug 16, 2012
You do not need a guide, just proficiency in sport climbing.
By Luke Bollinger
From: Tempe
Apr 17, 2013
Great page!!
By Chas Kristopher
From: Pittsburgh,pa
Jul 22, 2015
Fantastic. Love this place.
By Eugenel
From: PA
May 16, 2016
Tim Anderson's blog for Ohiopyle. Contains a TOPO of the routes
By Pete Baertsch
From: Connellsville, PA
May 18, 2016
Check out this interactive map showing the location of several popular and open access climbing areas in SWPA! Has parking and approach info for the boulders and sport crags at Ohiopyle. SWPA Sandstone

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