Login with Facebook
Sun Deck
Select Route:
Billy Shears T 
Bourbon Street T 
Cake Walk T 
Hurtin' Fer Certain. T,TR 
Jackal, The T 
Left Hand Mantel T 
Oh Mama Mama T 
Pink Flamin' Go T,TR 
Tourist Attraction T,TR 
Whiskey Crack T 
Whiskey Dick T,S 
Zig Zag T 

Oh Mama Mama 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 270', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 2,600
Submitted By: phil broscovak on May 29, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Stemming the roof to scope out the 'blind' stopper...


A superb 3 pitch route on the front face of Harmels at the far left side of the big roof. Standard approach is by traversing in from the left off of the Sun Deck past Whiskey Crack. This eliminates the 10c direct start through the roof and starts with the stellar 9+ finger crack, but for the full effect go direct. X marks the spot through the roof. Initial climbing is nearly unprotected and a little tricky up to the roof. (Note, this is not the same as Whiskey Straight Up, which is 15' to the left.) Good pro at the base of the roof and a solid but blindly placed, mid-sized stopper 1/2 way through the crux roof will get you safely to a hands free butt jam at the lip. 15 more feet of thoughtful but well-protected climbing puts you at the traditional belay stance below a small clean roof. The next pitch is a don't miss, 5.9+, finger crack classic. It will keep you on your toes all the way to the next belay. Pro is good on this pitch. From here it is possible to finish up the final head wall to the left of the Whiskey finish at about 8+, or traverse off left and scramble down the 'trough'. It is also possible to simply rap the route back to the base.


Wired stoppers and mid-sized cams to be sure.

Photos of Oh Mama Mama Slideshow Add Photo
John Pearson, "retreating" from an attem...
John Pearson, "retreating" from an attem...
Beta Photo.
Beta Photo.
John Pearson on an early top rope attempt of Oh Ma...
John Pearson on an early top rope attempt of Oh Ma...
Starting the off-sized fingers.
Starting the off-sized fingers.

Comments on Oh Mama Mama Add Comment
Show which comments
By phil broscovak
May 30, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This route could also be linked to the 'Big Roof'.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!