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Ogden Canyon

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Ogden Canyon  


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Location: 41.2368, -111.929 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 53,961
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Colby Wayment on Dec 1, 2001
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looking up at the 5.8 face on last pitch

Description 

Ogden Canyon was once the center of climbing in Ogden during the 1960s. Unfortunately, some of the best climbing in the canyon is currently closed (Warm Water Canyon, Peery Camp). On these cliffs, there were some, notable, historical ascents done by members of the Steinfel climbing club, including the Lowes, and the clubs predecessors. For the most part, climbing in OC consists mainly of slabby and just short of vertical rock. Climbs here are pretty short; most climbs range between 30 and 85 feet in height. The canyon is home to both trad and sport climbing - 5.3 to 5.13 - but don't get your hopes too far up, much of the climbing is obscure and difficult to locate. Climbs here, historically speaking, were never recorded and information about a route, until recently, has mostly been passed on orally from climber to climber.

There were a couple of quidebooks that had been printed a long time ago, but Dave Robb, through Sharpend Publishing, has published a new guide as of late 2005. His new guidebook is called Ogden Area Climbing Guide: From Brigham City to Echo Canyon. Check it out!

Getting There 

Ogden Canyon is easily accessable off of I-15. From I-15, just take the 12th street exit 342 and follow 12th street, east, until you arrive in the canyon. The majority of the routes are located in the first mile up the canyon (headed east).

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.4 miles from here

59 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',33],['1 Star',10],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',9],['5.7',6],['5.8',13],['5.9',9],['5.10',12],['5.11',8],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Ogden Canyon:
Utah Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 140'   Utah Wall
Diamond Spire   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 35'   The Diamond
Shotgun   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Utah Wall
Apex   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Utah Wall
Standard Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   5.8 Wall
Another Friend   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches   Upper 5.8 Wall
The Green Snatch   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   The Green Snatch
In The Pink   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Utah Wall
Sudden Exposure   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Hole in the Rock
Nuts and Bolts   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   Nuts and Bolts
Shotgun (Variation)   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR   Utah Wall
Bumbling Gumbies   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   The Diamond
If the fall doesnt kill you a car will   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Hole in the Rock
No Nuts   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Nuts and Bolts
Lawyers, Guns, and Money   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Utah Wall
Carpal Tunnel Syndrome   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   The Ice Wall
Airtime   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Utah Wall
Browse More Classics in Ogden Canyon

Featured Route For Ogden Canyon
great climb

If the fall doesnt kill you a car will 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Hole in the Rock
classic climb, small holds to whole way up. there is a big loose flake or rock up there, dont touch it, it could fall and likely kill the belayer and hit the cars below. belayer needs to be anchored at the bottom...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Comments on Ogden Canyon Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 9, 2009
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 20, 2002
The front is much better than Propulsion, but more expensive and farther to drive, but if you have the money and time then it is way better. The guys at propulsion are assholes!
By Andrew Morris
Dec 4, 2002
Me and my friend went bouldering on 26th street in Ogden. IT was really good rock with stuff for everyone to climb. It looked like a lot of people had climbed there already so there were routes marked with chalk and on rockclimbing.com there were people that had put up routes that were V0 to V2 so not too hard but hey, it works.LaterAndrew
By Andrew Morris
Dec 5, 2002
Anybody know of any guide books for 26th street bouldering?ThanksAndrew
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 5, 2003
Hey the hike up to the school yard wall above 26th street IS about 45 muinutes but only about 5 muinutes are scree. The first of the hike is up a trail section folowed by a really enjoyable hike up a boulder field (not as small as scree but not as big as a the average boulder problem.) From the road this section looks like the worst hike imaginable but it is quite fun. The following section is the scree(I dont even think that section is five muinutes but I will say it just to be safe.

once you are up the hike you come to a coule of easy climbs that go up a small section of rock. Once you are up there is a ledge that is between 10-5 feet wide, this ledge runs for a long way it is loaded with climbs. The ratings go up to 5.12 or 13 and as low as 9 or 10. A topo is advised because some of the climbs are only protected half way up. All climbs have ancors at the top but some have bolts as far as you can see so you start climbing and suddenly there are none.

If you go to canyon sports in ogden they can make acopy of the climbs for you. Go check it out!
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 31, 2005
Propulsion is now The Wall. The routesetters are the same, but the owners are different. I've been here maybe ten times and have had a great experience with the climbing and the staff. The employees are friendly and helpful. Don't let the previous comments stop you from going, it's a fantastic bouldering gym.
By Matt Howard
May 6, 2005
I never went to the climbing gym in riverdale when it was Propulsion, so I can't confirm whether or not the guys running it were jerks. It's not Propulsion anymore now, it's called The Wall, and I've never come across anyone who wasn't completely cool, easy-going and fun to climb with. The new owner is a great guy and I absolutely love this gym. The route setting is superb and a lot of the holds are made in-house, making for a unique experience. If anybody was turned off by previous management, go check it out again and stop ragging on the place.
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 24, 2005
Anybody know of any guide books for 26th street bouldering?

There is a guide called bouldering utah that has info about the bouders in this area i think they range from vo to about a v9 or maybe higher you can pick it up at REI or BD has a pic or a guy bouldering red rock in moab on the cover.

Matt
By Robert 560
From: The Land of the Lost
Jun 7, 2008
There are more then 100 routes in the canyon. I am working to get some of them posted. Let me know if you want me to work on any specific areas.
Thanks,
Robert
By tyler bostwick
Aug 13, 2009
Robert 560

Anything you can post regarding trad routes is appreciated. Info regarding finding the causey dam crags as well.
By wasatch-mtn-man
Oct 9, 2009
Robb's Ogden Area Climbing Guide is an indispensable tool for Ogden Canyon and Ogden area climbs.