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Offwidths are beautiful
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British X
Avg: 3.1 from 8
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Routes in Offwidths are beautiful
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Offwidths are beautiful T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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| Type: | Trad, 175 ft (53 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Craig Luebben, Sari Schmetterer, Earl Wiggins, Katy Cassidy, and George Hurley. 1988 |
| Page Views: | 1,647 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Tommy O. on Feb 29, 2016 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Pitch 1. Fun and varied right facing offwidth. Stack, chicken wing & squeeze if you can up to a fixed pin then launch into a squeeze chimney that will squeeze you back and eventually force you to crush some more offwidth (blue big bros or a #9 valley giant helps make this less of a religious experience) #6 Camalots are good to have but useless up high. This has been called 5.10 but I would add a few +'s unless you are a 7 year old or Craig Luebben. 2 bolt belay with rap rings in chimney. 5.10
Pitch 2. Chimney between the pillar and the main wall. The Karl Kelly book says that there is "no worthwhile pro" and I would agree. Enjoy the spirit quest as this is a fun pitch. 5.8 X
Pitch 2. Chimney between the pillar and the main wall. The Karl Kelly book says that there is "no worthwhile pro" and I would agree. Enjoy the spirit quest as this is a fun pitch. 5.8 X
Protection
Pitch 1. Camalots:
2 #3's
1 new #4
1 #5
3 #6's
#9 valley giant or blue big bros
One quick draw for the piton 1/2 way
You could bring more wide gear but then it would be hard to make any upward progress.
Two bolt anchor with rap rings
Pitch 2.
nuts 1 set
.1
.2
.3
draws for nuts
2 angled pitons with webbing on main wall for anchor
We did two rappels using a single 70 meter rope.
2 #3's
1 new #4
1 #5
3 #6's
#9 valley giant or blue big bros
One quick draw for the piton 1/2 way
You could bring more wide gear but then it would be hard to make any upward progress.
Two bolt anchor with rap rings
Pitch 2.
nuts 1 set
.1
.2
.3
draws for nuts
2 angled pitons with webbing on main wall for anchor
We did two rappels using a single 70 meter rope.
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