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> C. Lower Tier
> C. Middle & W Walls
Offwidth Corner
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 1.9 from 31 votes
Type: | Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
FA: | Deb Thompson, Mike Endicott, LP |
Page Views: | 2,058 total · 19/month |
Shared By: | Leo Paik on Jul 24, 2015 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Thanks to Mike Moritz, Chuck Fitch, and Adam Huxley this climb has become much safer!
This is the inviting corner with an offwidth size through the easy part. It had an ominous flake capping its crux that belied belief that it remains unfallen. Thanks again to Mike, Chuck, and Adam it is now gone! This guillotine-like flake resisted some basic kicking, tugging, and pulling, but it seemed to be attached for now by a small lip at 5 o'clock and its left side. On the 1st go, it appeared unsafe to pull on, which resulted in attempts to skirt it to the left...unsuccessfully. A prybar pulled up allowed them to lever it off!
The flake's top did flex a bit.
On the first go, it was scaly, wet, and needed cleaning...which made skirting the flake feel 5.11. After cleaning on a dry day, Mike used the flake for one hold and thought it was 5.8, but that seemed too conservative to me.
Edit: I'll go try it again and rerate it when it gets warm enough to do so.
This is the inviting corner with an offwidth size through the easy part. It had an ominous flake capping its crux that belied belief that it remains unfallen. Thanks again to Mike, Chuck, and Adam it is now gone! This guillotine-like flake resisted some basic kicking, tugging, and pulling, but it seemed to be attached for now by a small lip at 5 o'clock and its left side. On the 1st go, it appeared unsafe to pull on, which resulted in attempts to skirt it to the left...unsuccessfully. A prybar pulled up allowed them to lever it off!
The flake's top did flex a bit.
On the first go, it was scaly, wet, and needed cleaning...which made skirting the flake feel 5.11. After cleaning on a dry day, Mike used the flake for one hold and thought it was 5.8, but that seemed too conservative to me.
Edit: I'll go try it again and rerate it when it gets warm enough to do so.
8 Comments