|The Quarry Wall
This wide crack bulges out just at the point where you cannot chimney inside it anymore. A few true offwidth moves will be needed to round the steep part and get back into the slot above. Short but fully valid.
This is on the right side of the quarry, it is the 3rd crack from the right.
Probably only need #5 and #6.
Right side in? Or frontside out?
Deep in the crack.
|By Jason Kaplan|
From: Glenwood ,Co
Jan 24, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
I climbed this today and it was a lot of fun, I got to do some stacks (a few cupped hands/fist stacks and a couple double cupped hand stacks). I found the top of the bulge the hardest as I was right side in and my knee kept jamming when I tried to pull it up to reset it. I was groveling with a good but deep jug which was hard to make upward progress off, using a chicken wing for the outside. I am not sure at what point exactly but I also used a bit of (squeeze and normal)chimneying, thrutching, arm bars and inverted arm bars, knee jambs, double knee jambs, hip jams, stacked calfs! Wow... I barely made the OS. Tough, it didn't help that I tunneled in and very strenuously placed a #4 deep and out of my way, then had to come back down and out then around and up.
I placed a #3 and a #4 and that's all, once at top I pulled up rope and looped it around the semi detatched tower like block and had my partner counter weight it as I cleaned the gear on rap, then pulled the rope cleanly once at the bottom.
Super fun! I'll be back to practice my stacks and OW technique....
|By Mark Roth|
Nov 22, 2010
Tuesday Night offwidth crew?? This is a good candidate....
|By Sagar Gondalia|
May 15, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
For those looking to improve their offwidth skills, this is an excellent trainer. Despite its short length, it offers opportunities for excellent armbars, chickenwings, butterflies, hand/fist stacks, and kneebars. 1 x #4 and 1 x #5 are enough to sew up the bulge proper, but for those lead averse, a top rope is easily setup from above. Despite the picture of "Josh" going left side in, I strongly recommend going right. It's significantly easier.