|By Jason Kaplan|
From: Glenwood ,Co
Jan 24, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
I climbed this today and it was a lot of fun, I got to do some stacks (a few cupped hands/fist stacks and a couple double cupped hand stacks). I found the top of the bulge the hardest as I was right side in and my knee kept jamming when I tried to pull it up to reset it. I was groveling with a good but deep jug which was hard to make upward progress off, using a chicken wing for the outside. I am not sure at what point exactly but I also used a bit of (squeeze and normal)chimneying, thrutching, arm bars and inverted arm bars, knee jambs, double knee jambs, hip jams, stacked calfs! Wow... I barely made the OS. Tough, it didn't help that I tunneled in and very strenuously placed a #4 deep and out of my way, then had to come back down and out then around and up.
I placed a #3 and a #4 and that's all, once at top I pulled up rope and looped it around the semi detatched tower like block and had my partner counter weight it as I cleaned the gear on rap, then pulled the rope cleanly once at the bottom.
Super fun! I'll be back to practice my stacks and OW technique....