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 ADVANCED
The Quarry Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ankle Wrecker 
Banquet T,S 
Bone Collector aka Bone Crusher T 
Bowels, The T 
Depression  T 
Eastern Heart S 
Elephantiasis S 
Finger Wrecker 
Frank's Tame Years T 
Frank's Wild Years T 
Kleptocracy S 
Koolaid T,TR 
Marry Me, Becky T 
Moby Dick 
Mummy, The T 
Offwidth Bulge T 
One Night T,S 
Recession Arete S 
Scotland 'Wales' 
Shark Jaw T 
Sharkcicle T 
Short Tour, The T 
Silver Bullet T 
Something to Do 
South ArÍte 
Southwest Face 
Stimulus S 
Tough Love T 
Unknown T 
Warm Up Crack T 
Whale, The 
Yearling 
Unsorted Routes:

Offwidth Bulge 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,647
Submitted By: Joshua Merriam on Jul 22, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Josh happily stuck in a wide crack.

Description 

This wide crack bulges out just at the point where you cannot chimney inside it anymore. A few true offwidth moves will be needed to round the steep part and get back into the slot above. Short but fully valid.

Location 

This is on the right side of the quarry, it is the 3rd crack from the right.

Protection 

Probably only need #5 and #6.


Photos of Offwidth Bulge Slideshow Add Photo
Right side in? Or frontside out?
Right side in? Or frontside out?
Deep in the crack.
Deep in the crack.

Comments on Offwidth Bulge Add Comment
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By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Jan 24, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I climbed this today and it was a lot of fun, I got to do some stacks (a few cupped hands/fist stacks and a couple double cupped hand stacks). I found the top of the bulge the hardest as I was right side in and my knee kept jamming when I tried to pull it up to reset it. I was groveling with a good but deep jug which was hard to make upward progress off, using a chicken wing for the outside. I am not sure at what point exactly but I also used a bit of (squeeze and normal)chimneying, thrutching, arm bars and inverted arm bars, knee jambs, double knee jambs, hip jams, stacked calfs! Wow... I barely made the OS. Tough, it didn't help that I tunneled in and very strenuously placed a #4 deep and out of my way, then had to come back down and out then around and up.

I placed a #3 and a #4 and that's all, once at top I pulled up rope and looped it around the semi detatched tower like block and had my partner counter weight it as I cleaned the gear on rap, then pulled the rope cleanly once at the bottom.

Super fun! I'll be back to practice my stacks and OW technique....
By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Nov 22, 2010

Tuesday Night offwidth crew?? This is a good candidate....
By Sagar Gondalia
From: Golden
May 15, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

For those looking to improve their offwidth skills, this is an excellent trainer. Despite its short length, it offers opportunities for excellent armbars, chickenwings, butterflies, hand/fist stacks, and kneebars. 1 x #4 and 1 x #5 are enough to sew up the bulge proper, but for those lead averse, a top rope is easily setup from above. Despite the picture of "Josh" going left side in, I strongly recommend going right. It's significantly easier.