Off Your Rocker  5.11d R

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 190 feet, Grade III Consensus:  5.11d [details] FA:  Kevin Stricker, Dave Russell New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Kevin Stricker on Feb 12, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Off Your Rocker, pitch one.

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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>> The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Off Your Rocker climbs a beautiful face between Brothers in Arms and Uptown Toodleloo, finishing on the tower left of the main Poe Buttress. Begin by 4th classing to a ledge below an obvious scoop just to the right of the arête. Climb up into the orange scoop and place some protection on the right before making moves left to a horizontal crack (medium TCU). Consider unclipping the original pieces to reduce rope drag later. Once standing on the horizontal, build your nest in a flaring vertical seam (small TCU and RPs, Screamers advised). Make insecure moves up the seam until it dies out, then climb 11- moves with pro well below your feet to reach the diagonal crack of Brothers in Arms. Climb Brothers for 10 feet then head up and back left on large plates to clip a bolt. Continue up to a horizontal crack (#3 Camalot) and stand up to clip another bolt. Pull crux moves to a jug on the arête, then run it out to the block (cable anchor) and belay. The second pitch starts off the Rocking block, climbing fun dinner plates past 4 bolts (.10+) to a somewhat grainy but easy crack. Step left towards the top at a large flake (double runner wraps nicely) and continue on easier rock to the top. Rap twice with a 60m rope to the ground. The both pitches were rehearsed on TR before being bolted and led. All the bolts on this route were placed on lead, and all but two were bolted from stances. Climbing the first pitch of Uptown Toodleloo allows you to TR the first pitch.

Protection 

RPs to #3 Camalot, Screamers and Offset RPs recommended.

Photos of Off Your Rocker Slideshow

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Dave bolting the second pitch on lead.

OYR climbs the buttress on the left.