Offwidth Your Head
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Climbing up the perfect hands section.
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
Very surprised that this route hasn't been done till now! Starts with an easy offwidth that quickly turns to big hands in a left facing corner. From a comfortable stance continue up a tight corner with perfect hands until it is possible to step right below a large flake. Climb an overhanging crack on the right side of the flake that goes from big hands to fists to hand stacks before topping out on a block thats sitting on top of the flake (this block may be loose so it might be advisable to jam around it instead of pulling on it?).
About 50 yards right of Broken Brains. If you get to Lobotomy you just passed it. Look for a large flake up high thats about a foot thick.
(1)1.0, (2)2.0, (3)3.0, (1)3.5, (3)4.0 (one old two new works best), (2)5.0 all in Camalots. There is a two bolt anchor with chains. Sorry about the third bolt, I couldn't get it to tighten down but I plan on going back and removing it.
Jake getting close to the business!
By Devin Fin
Apr 14, 2013
great route! the sed block's at the top are cleaned off.. i jammed them an they shifted in to a bad position so bomb's away .... clean as can be now sick climb..