By Mostafa From Las Vegas, NV Feb 2, 2012
| What came first the large cams or the off width attempt? In my case the cam did. I'm interested in trying some easy (if they exist) offwidth climbing. Maybe small sections of offwidth in a easier route. I've never done any...recommendations? |  FLAG |
By John Hegyes From Las Vegas, NV Feb 2, 2012
| Well, they are not easy but Chrysler Crack and The Fox can be top-roped... |  FLAG |
By Sherri Lewis From Sequim, WA Feb 2, 2012
| I think offwidths came first and they just used their bodies for pro. Many of the climbs FA'd by Joe Herbst seem to have some offwidth, so pay special attention to ones listed under his name in the guidebook. P2 of Ragged Edges is a good place to start. |  FLAG |
By Mostafa From Las Vegas, NV Feb 2, 2012
| Ragged Edges looks like a good one to check out thanks. Chrysler not only looks hard but takes more larger cams than my friends and I would have combined! |  FLAG |
By rock_fencer From Columbia, SC Feb 2, 2012
| off widths came first with stove legs/2x4's for pro etc.... |  FLAG |
By Darren in Vegas From Las Vegas, NV Feb 2, 2012
| When a friend of mine and I wanted to get better at OW we went to the Kraft boulder field and set up a top rope on the Plumber's Crack (the side facing the parking lot), there is a bolt or two on the top of the boulder. We only allowed ourselves OW type of movement, no layback. It ends up being about 5.10 OW. After figuring out the movement, we were able to boulder it with pads. We also went to the Chrysler Crack in Sandstone Quarry set up a TR on that (I think you need some gear to do that). A bit of OW at the beginning followed by squeeze chimney. I learned a lot about OW from these two climbs, hope this helps. |  FLAG |
By Greg-Az From Prescott Az Feb 2, 2012
| Consider making a road trip to Joshua Tree sometime. There are lots of cracks to climb from finger to hand to off-width and for most part you dont really need a ton of big gear above a number 4. But I am guessing with gear recomendations. As for Red Rocks you would know more but I dont think there is much "pure" crack climbing. There is some but most of it is face climbing. Or there are features on the face so its real easy to "cheat" and not use the crack. I thought the tunnel pitch on tunnel vision was sort of off-width more of chimney/body wedge. The Second pitch of beleaus book had a nice chicken wing off-width move to get into the crack. |  FLAG |
By Doug Foust From Henderson, Nevada Feb 2, 2012
| Group Therapy has a pretty mellow OW section. |  FLAG |
By sqwirll From Las Vegas Feb 2, 2012
| Lady Wilson's Cleavage has some offwidth. |  FLAG |
By Darren in Vegas From Las Vegas, NV Feb 2, 2012
| Doug Foust wrote: Group Therapy has a pretty mellow OW section. I remember a wide crack I face climbed around, but no OW technique required.
sqwirll wrote: Lady Wilson's Cleavage has some offwidth. recommending this makes you a b@$t@rd. hehe |  FLAG |
By smassey From CO Feb 2, 2012
| John Hegyes wrote: Well, they are not easy but Chrysler Crack and The Fox can be top-roped... If you can figure out how to get up CC w/o laybacking, that's a great start. Plumber's Crack is a better primer - if you can work out the chickenwing/heel-toe moves at the start, and you feel comfy in the chimney, you'll be ready to TR CC. In order to TR that, i used 2x blue, yellow metolius, and a .75 and a static rope or lots of webbing. Re: the fox, if you have enough crack technique to get to the OW, then it's easier than CC. There are 2 hands-free kneebars, a hands-free heel-toe rest/nap, and a minor slabby thrutch that should teach you something about leg locks. Lady Wilsons does have some nice OW as well... |  FLAG |
By Jim Reynolds Feb 2, 2012
| Sherri Lewis wrote: I think offwidths came first and they just used their bodies for pro.
| Wide boys are still using this technique Submitted By: Jim Reynolds on Feb 2, 2012
| |  FLAG |
By -sp From East-Coast Feb 2, 2012
| smassey wrote: If you can figure out how to get up CC w/o laybacking, that's a great start. Plumber's Crack is a better primer - if you can work out the chickenwing/heel-toe moves at the start, and you feel comfy in the chimney, you'll be ready to TR CC. In order to TR that, i used 2x blue, yellow metolius, and a .75 and a static rope or lots of webbing. Re: the fox, if you have enough crack technique to get to the OW, then it's easier than CC. There are 2 hands-free kneebars, a hands-free heel-toe rest/nap, and a minor slabby thrutch that should teach you something about leg locks. Lady Wilsons does have some nice OW as well... Most excellent beta! Much appreciated. Headed there in April and my partner has no idea what's in store for her. |  FLAG |
By Killing In The Name Of Feb 2, 2012
| There really isn't too much splitter, sequential offwidth here, M. Lots of face holds. The splitter wide we do have IS rad, but what you need to get going is to lead some shit like Cookie Monster, that will get your arms and legs in and the big cams working, just not kick your ass. There are a lot of chimneys on the classics here, that's probably where you should focus on getting comfortable. When I moved here I had serious issues dealing with the slick nature of some of the chimneys; allowing yourself a break-in period to do easier routes that require some 3-D thinking and climbing will get you into the mode where you'll be comfortable with the moves before and after the stacks or whatever craziness you're after. TRing Chrysler should be fine to start, I think if you take the advice to tape up your ankles before shoeing up, you'll have fun and not get too chewed up. Oh, yeah-if you're already getting suckered into the "fancy-pants" mode (i.e. thinking that climbing in a pair of $85 synthetic Mtn Hardwear pants is the way to go), back out of that shit quick if you're doing any hard corner or offwidth. Jeans give you epic hip-scum power and tend not to tear when they snag on little crispies. You ought to post up after you've done a couple pitches and let everyone know your thoughts. Sometimes the student becomes the teacher.. |  FLAG |
By Matt Kuehl From Las Vegas Feb 2, 2012
| I've recently been climbing some wide stuff out here, its a great pursuit, you'll figure out pretty quick if you like it or not. Prepare to get thrashed. I've written up a post about the offwidth/squeeze climbs I've done so far. Lots of photos, some of which have been mentioned and other new ones. www.mattkuehl.blogspot.com |  FLAG |
By sqwirll From Las Vegas Feb 3, 2012
| Darren in Vegas wrote: recommending this makes you a b@$t@rd. hehe Couldn't resist. The other suggested routes are good. The OW on the Fox is too easy to cheat on. Like Cory said, several routes at the southern outcrops are wide. The wide bit on Peanut Butter and Jam is good practice. I recall you can set a TR pretty easily on it. |  FLAG |
By smassey From CO Feb 6, 2012
| +1. That's a fun climb. |  FLAG |
By rpc Feb 6, 2012
| "small sections of off width in an easier route" = burlesque ps wish you more luck getting thru. the squeeze chimney above than I had. |  FLAG |
By rockratrei Feb 6, 2012
| Try Little Joe in Pine Creek and the Triad in Oak Creek canyons or Crack of Infernity and Cochise in Lost Creek. |  FLAG |
By Mostafa From Las Vegas, NV Feb 6, 2012
| Thanks for the link SP I tried to search but was unsuccessful. |  FLAG |
By Spencer Weiler From SLC, UT Feb 7, 2012
| Chrysler crack gear question: What would the runout be like for me if all I have is one #6 camalot and 1 #4 big bro? Can you walk the #6 for awhile? Other small stuff available? |  FLAG |
By smassey From CO Feb 7, 2012
| Big. the 6 protects the start and serves as a multi-directional first piece. It's maybe 15-20' before you can get the blue bro, if i recall right. There's a small stopper on the back wall just as the crack opens to chimney size, and one more on the right before the finish. On subsequent leads, I haven't bothered because of the convoluted fiddling and the not confidence inspiring nature of those pieces. |  FLAG |
|