Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
 ADVANCED
Off Width Recommendations NV



View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums


Page 1 of 1.  
 
By Mostafa
From Las Vegas, NV
Feb 2, 2012
Red Rocks

What came first the large cams or the off width attempt? In my case the cam did.

I'm interested in trying some easy (if they exist) offwidth climbing. Maybe small sections of offwidth in a easier route. I've never done any...recommendations?


FLAG
By John Hegyes
From Las Vegas, NV
Feb 2, 2012
South of Windy Peak

Well, they are not easy but Chrysler Crack and The Fox can be top-roped...


FLAG
By Sherri Lewis
From Sequim, WA
Feb 2, 2012
Pausing to pose with the amazing cracks there.

I think offwidths came first and they just used their bodies for pro.

Many of the climbs FA'd by Joe Herbst seem to have some offwidth, so pay special attention to ones listed under his name in the guidebook. P2 of Ragged Edges is a good place to start.


FLAG
By Mostafa
From Las Vegas, NV
Feb 2, 2012
Red Rocks

Ragged Edges looks like a good one to check out thanks. Chrysler not only looks hard but takes more larger cams than my friends and I would have combined!


FLAG
By rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Feb 2, 2012
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protect between Bolt 2/3 just post crux . <br /> <br />Picture credit goes to eric Singleton, and many thanks to Josh Bagget for the great belay.

off widths came first with stove legs/2x4's for pro etc....


FLAG
By Darren in Vegas
From Las Vegas, NV
Feb 2, 2012
Skiing around.

When a friend of mine and I wanted to get better at OW we went to the Kraft boulder field and set up a top rope on the Plumber's Crack (the side facing the parking lot), there is a bolt or two on the top of the boulder. We only allowed ourselves OW type of movement, no layback. It ends up being about 5.10 OW. After figuring out the movement, we were able to boulder it with pads.
We also went to the Chrysler Crack in Sandstone Quarry set up a TR on that (I think you need some gear to do that). A bit of OW at the beginning followed by squeeze chimney.
I learned a lot about OW from these two climbs, hope this helps.


FLAG
By Greg-Az
From Prescott Az
Feb 2, 2012

Consider making a road trip to Joshua Tree sometime.

There are lots of cracks to climb from finger to hand to off-width and for most part you dont really need a ton of big gear above a number 4.

But I am guessing with gear recomendations.

As for Red Rocks you would know more but I dont think there is much "pure" crack climbing. There is some but most of it is face climbing. Or there are features on the face so its real easy to "cheat" and not use the crack.

I thought the tunnel pitch on tunnel vision was sort of off-width more of chimney/body wedge. The Second pitch of beleaus book had a nice chicken wing off-width move to get into the crack.


FLAG
By Doug Foust
From Henderson, Nevada
Feb 2, 2012
new toy

Group Therapy has a pretty mellow OW section.


FLAG
By sqwirll
From Las Vegas
Feb 2, 2012
Cool snow formation at the base.

Lady Wilson's Cleavage has some offwidth.


FLAG
By Darren in Vegas
From Las Vegas, NV
Feb 2, 2012
Skiing around.

Doug Foust wrote:
Group Therapy has a pretty mellow OW section.

I remember a wide crack I face climbed around, but no OW technique required.

sqwirll wrote:
Lady Wilson's Cleavage has some offwidth.

recommending this makes you a b@$t@rd. hehe


FLAG
By smassey
From CO
Feb 2, 2012

John Hegyes wrote:
Well, they are not easy but Chrysler Crack and The Fox can be top-roped...
If you can figure out how to get up CC w/o laybacking, that's a great start. Plumber's Crack is a better primer - if you can work out the chickenwing/heel-toe moves at the start, and you feel comfy in the chimney, you'll be ready to TR CC. In order to TR that, i used 2x blue, yellow metolius, and a .75 and a static rope or lots of webbing. Re: the fox, if you have enough crack technique to get to the OW, then it's easier than CC. There are 2 hands-free kneebars, a hands-free heel-toe rest/nap, and a minor slabby thrutch that should teach you something about leg locks. Lady Wilsons does have some nice OW as well...


FLAG
By Jim Reynolds
Feb 2, 2012
THe Knows of Al Kepiten

Sherri Lewis wrote:
I think offwidths came first and they just used their bodies for pro.



Wide boys are still using this technique
Wide boys are still using this technique
Submitted By: Jim Reynolds on Feb 2, 2012


FLAG
By -sp
From East-Coast
Feb 2, 2012
Buenos Dias!

smassey wrote:
If you can figure out how to get up CC w/o laybacking, that's a great start. Plumber's Crack is a better primer - if you can work out the chickenwing/heel-toe moves at the start, and you feel comfy in the chimney, you'll be ready to TR CC. In order to TR that, i used 2x blue, yellow metolius, and a .75 and a static rope or lots of webbing. Re: the fox, if you have enough crack technique to get to the OW, then it's easier than CC. There are 2 hands-free kneebars, a hands-free heel-toe rest/nap, and a minor slabby thrutch that should teach you something about leg locks. Lady Wilsons does have some nice OW as well...


Most excellent beta! Much appreciated. Headed there in April and my partner has no idea what's in store for her.


FLAG
By Killing In The Name Of
Feb 2, 2012
I'll take "things I'd give my left arm to bang" for $400, Alex

There really isn't too much splitter, sequential offwidth here, M. Lots of face holds. The splitter wide we do have IS rad, but what you need to get going is to lead some shit like Cookie Monster, that will get your arms and legs in and the big cams working, just not kick your ass. There are a lot of chimneys on the classics here, that's probably where you should focus on getting comfortable. When I moved here I had serious issues dealing with the slick nature of some of the chimneys; allowing yourself a break-in period to do easier routes that require some 3-D thinking and climbing will get you into the mode where you'll be comfortable with the moves before and after the stacks or whatever craziness you're after. TRing Chrysler should be fine to start, I think if you take the advice to tape up your ankles before shoeing up, you'll have fun and not get too chewed up.

Oh, yeah-if you're already getting suckered into the "fancy-pants" mode (i.e. thinking that climbing in a pair of $85 synthetic Mtn Hardwear pants is the way to go), back out of that shit quick if you're doing any hard corner or offwidth. Jeans give you epic hip-scum power and tend not to tear when they snag on little crispies.

You ought to post up after you've done a couple pitches and let everyone know your thoughts. Sometimes the student becomes the teacher..


FLAG
By Cory
From Boise, ID
Feb 2, 2012
Relaxing in the Tuttle Creek Campground after a fun day in the Hills

Several single pitch offwidths to choose from at the Chocolate Rocks and Illusion Crags:

Chocolate Rocks

Illusion Crags


FLAG
By Matt Kuehl
From Las Vegas
Feb 2, 2012
Fails of Power 5.11  <br />Zion, UT. <br />Photo: Jason Molina

I've recently been climbing some wide stuff out here, its a great pursuit, you'll figure out pretty quick if you like it or not. Prepare to get thrashed.

I've written up a post about the offwidth/squeeze climbs I've done so far. Lots of photos, some of which have been mentioned and other new ones.

www.mattkuehl.blogspot.com


FLAG
By sqwirll
From Las Vegas
Feb 3, 2012
Cool snow formation at the base.

Darren in Vegas wrote:
recommending this makes you a b@$t@rd. hehe


Couldn't resist.

The other suggested routes are good. The OW on the Fox is too easy to cheat on. Like Cory said, several routes at the southern outcrops are wide. The wide bit on Peanut Butter and Jam is good practice. I recall you can set a TR pretty easily on it.


FLAG
By smassey
From CO
Feb 6, 2012

+1. That's a fun climb.


FLAG
By rpc
Feb 6, 2012

"small sections of off width in an easier route" = burlesque



ps wish you more luck getting thru. the squeeze chimney above than I had.


FLAG
By rockratrei
Feb 6, 2012
rockratrei

Try Little Joe in Pine Creek and the Triad in Oak Creek canyons
or Crack of Infernity and Cochise in Lost Creek.


FLAG
By Killing In The Name Of
Feb 6, 2012
I'll take "things I'd give my left arm to bang" for $400, Alex

M, this is what's known as "sandbagging." Take note.


FLAG
By -sp
From East-Coast
Feb 6, 2012
Buenos Dias!

More wide stuff recommendations.


FLAG
By Mostafa
From Las Vegas, NV
Feb 6, 2012
Red Rocks




Thanks for the link SP I tried to search but was unsuccessful.


FLAG
By Spencer Weiler
From SLC, UT
Feb 7, 2012
standing rock

Chrysler crack gear question: What would the runout be like for me if all I have is one #6 camalot and 1 #4 big bro? Can you walk the #6 for awhile? Other small stuff available?


FLAG
By smassey
From CO
Feb 7, 2012

Big. the 6 protects the start and serves as a multi-directional first piece. It's maybe 15-20' before you can get the blue bro, if i recall right. There's a small stopper on the back wall just as the crack opens to chimney size, and one more on the right before the finish. On subsequent leads, I haven't bothered because of the convoluted fiddling and the not confidence inspiring nature of those pieces.


FLAG

Page 1 of 1.