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Barber Wall
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Off the Hook 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Callaghan and Wooding, circa '86
Page Views: 890
Submitted By: chris magness on Sep 18, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

Although neglected and a little dirty, this climb is SUPERB. Techy face climbing on small, hidden crimps. Look for an undercling/ layback 20' left of Chicken Delight.

Protection 

2 bolts below the ledge, and a couple of small to medium stoppers and possibly a .4 above the ledge. Stick clip the first bolt. Sustained and sequency. Bolts (recently replaced) are very well placed. Doesn't look it, but well protected and highly recommendable.


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By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 18, 2011

F/A Tom Callaghan and Steve Wooding around 86 or so. Slight dyno at the crux, at least for me. Tom will be happy to see the old 11b grade is now 11+ ! I remember some RP's as well.
By chris magness
Sep 18, 2011

The grade is a suggestion, this route feels like it has some hard 5.11 moves to me and is very sustained. Harder for shorter climbers. I'll update the FA. Thanks!
By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 19, 2011

Under about 5'11" or so and things could get a bit jumpy for sure.
By cjdrover
From: Watertown, MA
Jul 9, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Fun! Beta intensive, but I think 11b is fair once you work out the sequence. Good luck with the onsight, you'll need it. (PS - stick clip is essential, book mentions a low pin but it is gone)
By samuel von hammerstien
Sep 9, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

you can place gear in double v to protect the start if you don't want to stick clip it.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 10, 2013

Interesting, there was no stick clipping on the f/a
By samuel von hammerstien
Nov 7, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

there was also a flake with a pin behind it on the f/a. Not any more.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Nov 7, 2013

I was talking to the f/a'er the other day about keeping up with "route maintenance " tough to do
By mister-midpines
Jun 16, 2016

I'm SW, who did the FA with Tom. An FA year of '86 means I was about 16 when we did it. He was my unofficial climbing mentor. Such a kind guy.

Off the Hook was a really fun and memorable FA. It arose out of a mix of sport and traditional approaches. I noticed the climb one summer and soloed it on top rope a number of times. I was all set to rap bolt and red point it, and mentioned this to Tom. Being a polite guy he didn't point out how obnoxious I was to talk about rap bolting the Barber Wall and instead suggested we finish it from the ground up. Sounded great to me.

Tom's ground up FA was terrific and, as is often the case with him, extremely bold. It's difficult to appreciate his accomplishment given how well protected the climb is now. The original route description is correct about the pin - we put one behind an expanding flake near the bottom of the route. The flake was so loose it's no surprise the pin is gone. The flake itself may be gone. Above the flake Tom was using skyhooks for protection while he drilled (hence the climb's name). At one point he used a RURP! At the top he ran it out to the finish instead of pausing to protect (again, classic Tom). Tom definitely could have made things easier for himself by just bolting from the most convenient stances, but he was determined to make it an overall quality route and was willing to put himself out there for it. Truly impressive.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jun 17, 2016

Good to hear from you Steve

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