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Off the Hook 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Callaghan and Wooding, circa '86
Page Views: 771
Submitted By: chris magness on Sep 18, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Although neglected and a little dirty, this climb is SUPERB. Techy face climbing on small, hidden crimps. Look for an undercling/ layback 20' left of Chicken Delight.


2 bolts below the ledge, and a couple of small to medium stoppers and possibly a .4 above the ledge. Stick clip the first bolt. Sustained and sequency. Bolts (recently replaced) are very well placed. Doesn't look it, but well protected and highly recommendable.

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By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 18, 2011

F/A Tom Callaghan and Steve Wooding around 86 or so. Slight dyno at the crux, at least for me. Tom will be happy to see the old 11b grade is now 11+ ! I remember some RP's as well.
By chris magness
Sep 18, 2011

The grade is a suggestion, this route feels like it has some hard 5.11 moves to me and is very sustained. Harder for shorter climbers. I'll update the FA. Thanks!
By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 19, 2011

Under about 5'11" or so and things could get a bit jumpy for sure.
By cjdrover
From: Somerville, MA
Jul 9, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Fun! Beta intensive, but I think 11b is fair once you work out the sequence. Good luck with the onsight, you'll need it. (PS - stick clip is essential, book mentions a low pin but it is gone)
By samuel von hammerstien
Sep 9, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

you can place gear in double v to protect the start if you don't want to stick clip it.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 10, 2013

Interesting, there was no stick clipping on the f/a
By samuel von hammerstien
Nov 7, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

there was also a flake with a pin behind it on the f/a. Not any more.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Nov 7, 2013

I was talking to the f/a'er the other day about keeping up with "route maintenance " tough to do

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