Off The Cuff
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climb the scooped face to the top. It gets lower angle the higher you go. Walk off right.
At right side of cliff, 20 feet right of Orangutan Flake. Look for a line of slopey scoops.
NC trad rack
By Mark Pell
Mar 18, 2012
I just started bouldering this one day and ended up on top, but if memory serves I'd have to say the crux face climbing low on the route is probably not very well protected if you do this as a lead. Start on the face about 15-20' right of Orangutan Flake and follow the obvious path of least resistance, with a little bit of back-and-forth sequencing between reachy edge moves. If you are a highball boulderer and can climb anything else at Cedar you can downclimb out of trouble on this route before it gets serious. Once you commit, a small tree ledge comes shortly after the 5.8 moves. You can escape right from this ledge but if you go on up, it's never harder than 5.6-5.7 but generally much easier, and escape is again possible at a couple points by traversing right on 'easy' ground with good holds until you can ramp down to meet the rising terrain at the right end of the cliff. I don't recommend soloing but if you like to, you know who you are and that's your business. This may be the safest solo route to the summit as well as being great fun. Just wait until it's good and dry. I told Sean about this climb and we third-classed the second ascent together and shared a beer and a smoke sitting on the nice 'furniture' up high on the face. Take a few minutes to enjoy the view from there.