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Lower Peanuts
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Your Basic Lieback 

Off The Cuff 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b X

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: [M. Brooks, Pierce, Stuberg, C. Harrison, 1981]
Page Views: 334
Submitted By: Larry Lindeman on Jun 15, 2003
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Stef Van Wychen on Off The Cuff at Lower Peanuts, ...
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The first pitch, as described in the Rossiter guide, is fun and worth doing if you have a few minutes. It is only about 30 feet of climbing (fingers- to hands-sized crack that can be jammed or done as a lieback).

The second pitch is not recommended. As descibed in the guidebook, you climb a 10 inch crack behind a flake. I got into the offwidth, threw a sling around the top of the flake (the only real protection at this point), made a few offwidth moves, and swung my body to the outside of the flake. As my body was making the swing, the top several feet of the flake tilted away from the wall with me and then thudded back into place. There is a tiny (non visible) fracture through the flake. I nearly pitched off the climb while being clipped to a 500 lb. rock!! My belayer said that the top of the flake tilted so far away from the rock that she didn't understand why it went back into place. We have decided that the only reason it did, was because the momentum of my body was moving back into the wall when it tilted.

Basically, don't do the second pitch until this flake falls.


Protection 

Standard Eldo rack.



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By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
From: Seattle, WA
Jul 30, 2003

It seems that this worrisome block has fallen off....

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 30, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b R

Indeed the flake on the left has been decapitated and is safe to climb.

By Ben Burnett
From: Colorado
Aug 8, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b PG13

Fun, easy climbing, guarded by some lichen and loose blocks. Gear is sparse on top, but the crux is at the bottom. Makes for a good 100 ft pitch to the summit ridge.

Take RPs and micro cams. A tall leader can get in a piece from the top of the decapitated flake before continuing on.

Located 8 feet left of the clean "Fickle Finger of 8", left-facing dihedral. Start at a short overhand with a wide slot in it. Head for the obvious OW and tree reaching out at the top.